About Bicycle Touring, Bicycle Tour Issues, and
Bicycle Tour Planning
{Self, Couple, Groups; Short - Expedition; Lodging - Camping} v43

Most cyclists mix up their carry loads from tour to tour.
Some cyclists are physically limited to carrying the lightest of loads.
Some cyclists are speed & distance oriented.
Some cyclists are time limited.
Some cyclists prefer to address a wider array of contingencies.
Statistically, the data point results come close to forming a Bell Curve.

4 - Some nice to know details about bicycle touring:

1st	There are Many Ways to perform a Bicycle Tour. I.E., There is more than one way to have a successful tour.
2nd	Over Time a cyclist will travel in a mix of Load/Riding Styles.
3rd	All tours are controlled by Travel Leg Accomplishment and Risk, 'one leg at a time'; a Travel Leg addresses the time and distance between food and water resupply points.
4th	Every kind of bicycle and person has successfully toured at some time or another; there are some things that people have learned that make touring more enjoyable.

bicycle tour styles

learned from those before us

5 - Bicycle Tour Style Statistics
For Camping and/or Lodging

We were Prepared, Spring time snow on the New Mexico GDMBR.

A - Mainly Camping Style

15% of riders carry 0-1 day of clothing, carry the minimum of weight, and camp.
35% of riders carry 2-3 days of clothing and camp.
35% of riders carry 4-5 days of clothing and camp.
15% of riders carry 6-7 days of clothing and camp.

B - Only Lodging Style

10% of riders carry 0-1 day of clothing, carry the minimum of weight, and NO Camping.
80% of riders carry 2-5 days of clothing and NO Camping.
10% of riders carry 6-7 days of clothing and NO Camping.

'Days of Clothing' addresses Variable Clothing counts of shirts/jerseys, riding pants, underwear/underliners, and socks..

'Days of Clothing' Does NOT address Constant Clothing that ALL Cyclists usually should carry One-Of-Each, for instance: ONE rain parka or rain jacket, ONE heavy sweater/polar-fleece/flannel shirt/jack, ONE pair of gloves, ONE hat, maybe ONE pair of boots, and maybe ONE nice off-the-bike city shirt and pants (for city dressing), [and maybe ONE skirt wrap, shoulder wrap, and/or dress for ladies] ... ). These are Constant-Must-Have tour items (not daily changes of clothing, not Variable Clothing).

No two people pack the same and usually the same person does not duplicate their clothing tour packing twice in a row.

More Gear - More Clothing / Less Gear - Less Clothing: There is a Direct Ratio between How Much Gear is Carried and How Much Clothing is carried (which is why we no longer separate the two issues).

Limit: 7 Days of Clothing: No One carries more than seven days of clothing (and yet seven is not all that unusual). In some situations some cyclists will carry none to one set of extra clothing but they will almost always carry cold and or wet weather clothing. See Typical Clothing Carried Statistics/Graphic.

Lodging Only riders do NOT carry camp gear but may carry a stove (hot morning beverage and hot meals).

Mainly Camping riders may occasionally stay at a place of Lodging or a Campground that has electricity, warm showers, and laundry facilities.

Recharging computer, smartphone, and/or camera batteries has become a much bigger time management factor than in the past (it is a necessity to some, especially to cyclists who have always had a smartphone). See about the In's and Out's of Battery Charging

See On-Bike Clothing Checklist, Off-Bike Optional Clothing Checklist, and/or the Bike Tour Checklist.

5A - Bicycle Tour Style: Mainly Camping, Details

15% of tour riders carry the absolute minimum of weight

Total load limited up to about 25 pounds.
Attributes similar to Ultra-Light rider touring (1 person tent/tarp/tube/bivy).
If tent, typically it weighs 5 pounds max (including every component).
Sleeping bag, lightweight: either a 45F/7C summer bag for summer camping in warm areas or maybe a down bag good to 20F/-7C for spring, fall, mountain camping. A Bivy Sack will usually convert a Summer Sleeping Bag to a 3 season Bag
Situational:

0 extra clothing, often on 2 or 3 day (weekend like) jaunt, some riders may not carry spare clothing and may not perform clothing cleaning; personal cleaning may be modest. May still carry outer ware clothing, See Notes Above.
1 day of extra clothing (plus what the cyclist is wearing) for long distance touring, requires daily clothes washing (or roughing it for a day or two).

Stove optional, may be living off non-cooking meals: bread, peanut butter/Nutella/similar-spread, sometimes modified non-cooked MRE type meals, fruit (not much food carried at one time, more frequent stops at markets than riders with heavier loads).

Skyline Drive of the Blue Ridge Parkway in Shenandoah National Park, Virginia.

35% of riders carry 2-3 days of clothing

Total Tour carry load usually around 40-50 pounds.
1 or 2 man tent (mostly 2 man tents or couples with 3 man tent).
Stove, 2 pots, some cutlery/kitchen tools.
2-3 days of food: either MRE or dehydrated meals, plus granola type road snacks/supplements, may or may not eat at restaurants, will visit village/city grocers when opportune, seldom carry more than 3 day food supply, may carry/use bulk water container.

Terry Struck, Wolverine & Gilsonite Trail Intersection.

35% of riders carry 4-5 days of clothing

Clothing often addresses monsoon riding, snow pass riding, and tropical/humid/heat riding (a broader weather risk coverage).
Total Tour carry load usually around 55-65 pounds.
May carry enough water for 2 days or 3 days if frugal; will carry bulk water container or many bottles or a few jugs, sometimes empty, sometimes full.
1 or 2 man tent (mostly 2 man tents).
1 or 2 Stoves (extra fuel, stoves may or may not be same fuel source), 2 pots, some cutlery/kitchen tools.
2-5 days of food, as needed, dehydrated package and/or MRE type meals when possible, food mix gets creative, sometimes high calorie more compact/dense foods (jerky, trail mix).

Dennis & Terry Struck, Carnero Pass, Colorado.

15% of riders carry 6-7 days of clothing

Clothing often addresses monsoon riding, snow pass riding, and tropical/humid/heat riding (a broader weather risk coverage).
Total Tour carry load usually around 75-100 pounds.
Big guys typically gravitate to this class but many other long range cyclists also gravitate to this class.
This class often has riders with full loads stacked on front as well as on the back of the bicycle, often with objects tied to the gear (like plastic bags of additional food, gear, and/or water jugs).
May carry enough water for 3 days or 4 days if frugal; will carry 1 or 2 bulk water containers or many bottles or a few extra jugs (sometimes empty, sometimes full). If 4 or more days of water are needed (very rare), then the cyclist usually needs panniers on the bicycle and a trailer or a 3rd wheel bulk water carrier (usually for dessert and outback travels).
2-3 man tent (almost exclusively 2 man tents for soloist, 3 man tent for team/couples).
Often 2 Stoves even if 1 is a simple alcohol burner or tin-can (extra fuel, stoves may or may not be same fuel source, usually every kind of liquid fuel can be burned), 2 pots, some cutlery/kitchen tools.
2-7 days of food, as needed, dehydrated package and/or MRE type meals are common (MRE's for water sparse areas, dehydrated for water available areas), food mix gets creative, sometimes high calorie more compact/dense foods (jerky, trail mix), and sometimes fatty foods are not the enemy for endurance situations.

5B - Bicycle Tour Style: Lodging Only, Details

The amount of clothing carried varies very little. Typically, riders with little to no extra clothing are often going for distance and riders who carry more clothing are looking for touring flexibility. Most riders carry an 'in-between' amount of clothing (between 1 to 7 days of change, including jerseys, underwear, and socks).

Sometimes this is called Credit Card Touring.
The total load, for non-camping tours, ranges from 20 to 40 pounds.
No tent, no sleeping bag.
Stove, Pot, and Cooking are optional.
The cyclists may carry a day's worth of food (sometimes 2 days), but usually the riders are eating out of stores and restaurants. Typical carried foods are bread, peanut butter, Nutella, or similar protein in small jars; fruit, jelly/similar, maybe cheese, fruit or dehydrated fruit (not much volume is carried on the bike; food is often fresh eaten at or around the market/place of purchase). Also, granola (in one of its many forms) and/or power bars may be carried for interim snacks or for just-in-case.
Lodging locations tend to be Hotels, Motels, Hostels, Pensions, B&Bs, Friend's Homes, and/or Homes of Online Cyclists.
Clothing:

10% of the riders carry 0 to 1 day of extra clothing. These riders with super lightweight loads are typically riding for distance, or positioning themselves to be able to ride for distance if that is a necessity between tourist locations, or they are physically incapable of carrying heavier loads. These riders are performing daily or near daily sink/tub clothing washes, drying overnight on room hangers (or such). A laundry mat or hotel machine may be used when available. The cyclists are usually working from a very purposeful route plan for each day.

80% of the riders carry 2 to 5 days of clothing. These riders with interim weight loads are purposefully dividing time between distance riding and touring. These riders can still perform a strong degree of distance riding but they may also perform short stays in one location as a tourist, or perform loop rides from a central location. This cyclist is usually working from a general plan. Usually clothing is washed in little batches every two or three days at the lodging's machine, or when passing a laundry mat or a campground with machines. Usually, there is very little distinction between what else is carried between 2 and 5 days of clothing for Lodging Only Cycle Touring.

10% of the riders carry 6 to 7 days of clothing. These riders with a heavier non-camping tour load are typically performing batch laundry sessions every 4 to 5 days (usually with a washing machine at a laundry mat, hotel, or as passing by a campground) but the cyclists may still be perform daily washing from a sink/tub if need be. In some locations, a local laundry person or business may be known to be available to perform laundry services, often overnight. This bicycle riding style is less common but allows flexibility for unplanned touring. On occasion, this group of cyclists has been known to wear cold weather night clothing (parka or coat) for sleeping in an alpine hut, or a covered rest stop, or an adirondack for one night.

6 - Bicycle Tour Clothing Types and Issues

Clothing TOC
A) Synthetic versus Organic, B) Storms and Clothing, C) Survival Secrets, D) Additional Clothing Issues,
Topics Related to Clothing: Laundry, Cultural Issues

6A - Synthetic versus Organic Clothing:

Clothing TOC
A) Synthetic versus Organic, B) Storms and Clothing, C) Survival Secrets, D) Additional Clothing Issues,
Topics Related to Clothing: Laundry, Cultural Issues

Generally synthetic clothing is lighter in weight, holds/retains less water, dries much quicker and tends to reduce the amount of bacteria or yeast naturally held in the material.
Synthetic clothing, when designed for such, can wick moisture away from the body far better than for organic clothing.
Organic clothing, particularly cotton, can be more comfortable on a hot day because of the sweat retention and evaporation.
Synthetic clothing tends to be much more prone to fire spark damage and burns faster than organic clothing if flash exposed to open fire.
Synthetic clothing, when worn in a fire/hot atmosphere will damage the human body more than its organic clothing counterpart, in fact cotton and wool offer a little protection or burn delay when compared to synthetic clothing. Military Pilots are only allowed to wear cotton undies under their Nomex (flame retardant) flight suits for this reason.
Many synthetic clothing items will virtually dry by spinning it overhead but organic clothing may need an hour or two to dry out in a best case scenario. When compared side-by-side in identical conditions, synthetic clothing will ALWAYS dry faster.
Synthetic clothing tends to not hold as many germs over the long haul.
Synthetic sleeping bag materials dry faster than goose down and can provide insulation when partially wet, goose down cannot. Synthetic sleeping bag materials tend to be heavier than goose down for the same amount of insulation R Value. More about Sleeping Bags.
Synthetic clothing generally lasts/wears longer than organic clothing.
Synthetic socks designed for hiking tend be far superior to organic materials for wear and for causing less blistering.
Organic clothing can hold up to direct applications of DEET but synthetic clothing may melt. DEET will destroy or ruin the effectiveness of synthetic clothing.
See Insect Repellent discussions (DEET and Permethrin, read the hyper notes).
See Laundry (How to Clean your Clothes on an ongoing Bicycle Tour).

6B - Storms and Clothing:

Clothing TOC
A) Synthetic versus Organic, B) Storms and Clothing, C) Survival Secrets, D) Additional Clothing Issues,
Topics Related to Clothing: Laundry, Cultural Issues

One big variable addresses whether one is in a passing thunderstorm (where the sun will likely be out later in the day) or a monsoon (where one may be socked in for days of rain).

'Weather out the Storm?' - The expression means to stay put for the duration of the storm and it is a valid consideration; some related variables are safety for the particular location, weather protection, food supplies, sanitation, and one's general ability and capability to stay in place for a while. Sometimes one must bike for a while in wet miserable conditions just to get to dry lodging where one can hole-up for a few days.
'Dry Out Now or Dry Out Later?' - The expression addresses the issue of whether to pack and leave an area with wet gear or stay in an area and dry the gear in sunlight? A big mitigating issue is whether it will be sunny along the planned travel route? AND, when will the sun be rise high enough to effectively dry wet gear? AND, how low will the drying process take?
- Generally, we have learned to pack up wet, and take time to dry the gear and clothing at mid day in what is often the sunniest/warmest part of the day (when the Sun is as its most efficient and effective heating angles). If one waits to let the morning sun dry the gear it takes longer (which is lost travel time in what is often the desirable and cooler day light cycling hours). On the other hand, wet gear is heavier and unless it is packed correctly it can get other dry things wet - It takes a little deliberate packing finesse to pack wet gear and not get other gear wet. Generally, from experience, we pack wet and move out (in these conditions).
During the noon-lunch rest-stop, if it is bright and sunny, hang items out to dry while lunching AND the conditions may also be the best time to run a Solar Charger..
Usually the mid day sun dries items faster than the morning or evening sun.
Except in arid and semi-arid areas, washed gear will often not dry out at night. So, the best/most-efficient time to dry clothing is under the midday sun. That means that one often stops for an extended lunch and hangs laundry on a bike, fence, or picnic table in order to dry items of use.
While cycling, it is common to leave wet gear under a strap or net, exposed to the wind and/or sun, in order to dry objects (especially for the morning's microfiber washcloth and towel).

6C - Clothing Survival Secrets
(How to Be Seen, Stay Dry, and NOT Hang-Up on Obstacles):

Clothing TOC
A) Synthetic versus Organic, B) Storms and Clothing, C) Survival Secrets, D) Additional Clothing Issues,
Topics Related to Clothing: Laundry, Cultural Issues

Always use a waterproof bag for clothing storage, clear bags seem to be the most serviceable but any waterproof bag is better than nothing. Also use waterproof bags for the sleeping bag(s) and the sleeping pad(s). However, note that if a sleeping pad gets wet, one can cover it with a space blanket (recommended to carry). A wet bag or wet clothing usually ends touring for a while (or in total) and the effort to dry said gear becomes the focus of most of one's effort, like finding a town or place with a Clothes Dryer.
Most of the time the cyclist will be carrying their own clothing so total weight matters. One can carry as much as they want but most people want to carry as little as is needed.
Most of the time, the cyclist's own bike clothing is serviceable for off the bike activities, but not always. Make choices, the trade off is extra/more weight to carry.
Reflective strips can be bought in most good fabric stores or ordered online and added onto clothing and/or gear. Sewing, while time consuming, will outlast iron-on strips.
Cargo Pants/Shorts: Wearing pants with many pockets are becoming increasingly popular for touring cyclists, especially those pants designed with Zip On/Off Leggings.

Note: There are at least two different ways for the Clothing Manufacturer to Create/Make/Sew-On Cargo Pant Pockets:
1 - Flat edge sewn.
2 - Baffle edge sewn.

Warning: In the field, Baffle pockets can hang up on or snatch anything that you walk by or bike by, this is especially problematic in brush country, almost any narrow access path or bike path, in and around many vehicles, walkways, and places of lodging; the pockets can hang-up on just about everything that sticks out at thigh level (drawer knobs, plants, sticks, protruding rocks, brush, fence posts, fence wire ends, almost any barbed wire, door handles [especially those for physically challenged people], vehicle arm rests, door jambs, hand rail ends, gate posts). Most of these examples have come from actual personal experience.

In the sample picture to the upper-right, the writing instruments are about 1 inch inside the pocket baffle - Items are nearly always hanging up the wearer when baffle side pocket pants are worn outdoors in the back country. The issue is how the pockets are mounted, not that the pockets hold a lot; the left side pant pocket is well designed and the right side pocket is poorly designed.
Solutions:
- Do NOT Buy or obtain pants with any kind with baffle pockets.
- Technical Issue: Be aware that some pockets have flat sewn edges but darted baffles in the middle or pocket center, avoid these too.
- If you have pants like this, either get rid of them or sew down the edging in a manner that the pockets won't hook on or snag on any objects when you walk by or bike by said objects.

6D - Additional Clothing Issues:

Clothing TOC
A) Synthetic versus Organic, B) Storms and Clothing, C) Survival Secrets, D) Additional Clothing Issues,
Topics Related to Clothing: Laundry, Cultural Issues

Generally, select and pack clothing for a Layers Capability.
Warning: Packing at warm-lower locations-elevations when the destination is cool, cold, or freezing, leaves many distressed at altitude.
The work of bicycling in cool weather keeps one warm, but as soon as one stops biking, a physical cool down occurs. Keep a jacket and a hat handy to stay warm and sometimes gloves are useful.
GoreTex or similar Jackets are handy for rain, warmth, and wind.
Lady Modesty: Just a reminder that in 3/4 of the world, the showing of bare shoulders and/or bare legs is culturally sensitive (to include southern or eastern Europe) and sometimes that style of dress can bar one from entering some establishments, especially government buildings, shrines, churches, and religious centers. It is wise to consider the dressing customs of destination countries.
It is common to see long distance cyclists in regular out-of-doors clothing that is fit for the climate(s) and region(s) - It often has to do with snow covered mountain passes, rocky mountain roads, floods, marshes, rain, mud, hot sand, and walk-pushing a damaged bike.

Geography
For Bicycle Tour Planning

Top, Travel Leg Planning, Weather, Route, Navigation, Bicycle Tour Planning Graphic, Planning Traps

Each Eco-Region requires a different kind of Life Survival Preparation.

Geography is one of the major inputs to 'Ecoregions' [Ecological Regions, sometimes called Climate Zones] where landforms, plant forms and animal forms are similar. Cyclists should be familiar with the concepts and implications of Eco-Regions; some of the more commonly known Ecoregion names are Desert, Arid, Semi-Arid, Alpine, Savanna/Plains, Rain Forest, Tropics, Tundra, Montane/Mountain, Woodlands, Temperate, and Maritime (there are more classifications and many sub-divisions).

Each ecoregion typically has its own Weather Pattern and its own Issues for Survival.

Eco-Regions [Ecological Regions]

seasons and/or periods of great stress

Weather

Desert, Arid, and Semi-Arid Regions:

In dry areas one should realize the importance of water, access to water, and long stretches between water locations.
If the Cyclist, through route planning, has determined that they need to carry more than a day's water supply, then the bike will need to be configured for heavier loads. The typical solution is to add a Third Wheel or Trailer for water and that is typically added to a bike with full panniers (two front, two rear). Also see Bicycle Configurations and maybe Kinds of Tour Equipment.
Not all desserts are Hot, but one should address the heat and/or cold issues with appropriate clothing (sun shade/protection and breathable).
A cyclist should be familiar with the common medical issues like heat exhaustion and dehydration.
One of the issues with hot deserts is that they can become very cold at night because there is no atmospheric retention of heat, all of the warmth radiates out to the night sky, frequently taking temperatures right down to freezing.
The chronic lack of humidity dries everything quickly, including the human body.
Pay attention to hydration - One of the symptoms of dehydration is a headache (Tylenol OK, Aspirin NOT, drink water).
This type of dry climate increases the chance of developing nose bleed(s). Petroleum Jelly (like Vaseline) is a common dry nose treatment. Chapstick/Lip-Baum is a common field treatment solution (finger application).
In all hot climate zones, the indigenous people often go to sleep when it is naturally cool enough to sleep, this is often mid-night. These sleeping habits evolved before the advent of Air Conditioning. Also, the same people are likely to sleep 8 hours and then eat breakfast, so their work day often starts around 0900-1000 hrs.
When the sun and day is at its hottest, many people just get off their bikes. It is a good time to be a tourist, visit a museum or such. Note that in some areas, this may be Siesta time (or the functional equivalent) and many shops may be closed.
In hot climates, it is too hot between 11am and about 3pm so activity just comes to a stop, people just rest. In some places this is called Siesta Time. It effects travelers because Mom and Pop Stores close at this time, and a cyclist my not be able to buy simple supplies or food during this time frame. If the cyclist is in a town at evening or morning, that is the time to supplies or food (buy and carry heat survivable food to eat later at mid-day in the morning or evening before).
Many Cyclists like to start biking at first daylight (to take advantage of the cool of the day). If the cyclist is at lodging, then let the owner/manager know of the intentions because they/staff may not show up until 0900-1000 hrs (as is their local custom). It is good to prepay and settle all debts the night before. Also, if a continental breakfast is involved (which may not be setup until 0900) then consider requesting a bag breakfast to-go.

Alpine Region ('Alto-Pine' or Above the Treeline)

The Alpine Region is the area above tree-line and it can mimic Tundra Regions, often having the same feel and fauna.
The likelihood of snow or freezing temperatures may happen at any time of the year, even during the summer, especially at night.
The Alpine clothing issue is dressing for warmth and layers, especially for cyclists. Cyclists are often pedaling and are therefore warm while doing such, but when they become idle (at rest, break, setting up camp, or conducting maintenance) they can slowly start cooling down and may need a jacket or over-shirt or both (as well as gloves and/or warmer head-gear). The effect can be quite dramatic if the sun is down or going down.
What are common Alpine medical issues? Dehydration, Altitude Sickness, and Physical Exhaustion (Bonking is the common Cycling term).
How smart is it to bring in some or all of the water at night? Very.
How about a Balaklava/Balaclava for pedaling in that freezing morning air? Yes, Helmet covers too.
It can be very beneficial to wear a hat in camp. Also consider slip on leggings (like rain pants) as well as good footwear (boots and/or hiking socks).
When Sleeping in a bag at night, a sailor's type of watch cap (lumberjack's knit cap or ski hat) can be very beneficial for staying warm (since the head radiates 110% of the body's heat - old joke, but the head's heat loss is substantially disproportionate to its surface area). Some people can handle being wrapped up in a mummy sleeping bag, but most people cannot, ergo, the knit cap.
There is a higher index of UV light above the treeline, sunscreen and clothing protection is important.
Layering is important, cyclists are often working and don't realize how cool it is until they have been idle for a while.
These areas frequently have low humidity even though snow may be on the ground, hydration is important, and dehydration often manifests itself as a headache (Tylenol OK, Aspirin NOT, drink water).
This type of dry climate increases the chance of developing nose bleed(s). Petroleum Jelly (like Vaseline) is a common dry nose treatment. Chapstick/Lip-Baum is a common field treatment solution (finger application).
Protecting the eyes from sun glare can be an issue (Polarized Sunglasses).
Also see Montane as it is often the climatic zone/region just below Alpine.

Savannas, Plains, High Plains, Prairie, Chaparral, and Open Regions

Savannas, Plains, High Plains, Prairie, Chaparral, and Open Areas are notorious for winds (and by the laws of nature, the wind will always be against the cyclist and only appear when the cyclist is ready to cycle), thus a planned and budgeted easy and flat 40 mile trek may take all day long and go into the night and if the cyclist does not have a food reserve, this condition can turn into a medical emergency for the body's physical energy depletion (called 'Bonking', Exercise Exhaustion) where one cannot think properly and cause a lack of body system anti-bodies which in turn can allow a rider to become sick for a week (from a low immune system). It is best to 'Be Prepared'.
Warning: Fast moving grass fires are always concern in Prairies/Savannas. Grass fires can be caused by lightning or man. Note the difference between dry grass and green grass (usually a lawn or farm/ranch grass product), green grass is way safer than dry open prairie grass. Position the camp as best as one can for fire safety, avoid pitching a tent in or next-to standing prairie grass or bushes. Sometimes the cyclist is not given a choice. See tent site selection issues. In campgrounds, sometimes other campers (often rookies or drunks) cause quick moving fires in the campground (just in the campground), again position the tent away from these kinds of campers and camp issues.
Experience: Terry and I have sat out some horrendous lightning storms in the only semi-protected structure, a bathing/toilet/wash-room facility. Once, the lightning was so bad that in time of eating of our supper, that we grabbed our meals and took them in the washroom with us, we were just too tired to wait. This has happened more than once.
Experience: Always keep some water bottles in the tent.
These areas are famous for summer evening and late night evening thunder storms. Tents need to be staked, fly's tied down (wind flap proofed), any fires thoroughly extinguished, and all loose gear secured. Bikes should be chained/cable locked/secured to an immovable object and all bag and pannier flaps closed (rain comes in sideways for a brief period of time). If the cyclist is carrying a bike cover, set it up but make sure that the cover is anchored (sometimes those things are found a mile away or never found at all).
The cyclist needs a mindset to close up the tent and all gear bags as soon as something is accessed and one has to be careful about tent side flaps/screens. If the tent is a screen tent, as many summer vent tents are, then securing the tent cover should be the only task remaining in the camp for rain/wind security.

Tropic (sometimes including Rain Forests, Jungles, and Savannas)

In the Tropic's (typically between the Tropical Latitudes of Capricorn and Cancer) and defined by relative heat (average temperatures above 18C/64F), they can be wet or dry but will always have a wet season (monsoon season or rainy season).
Typically, when things get wet, they may stay wet for a long period of time. Avoid cotton clothing, although a cotton T-shirt will feel good while riding (because of the evaporation). Synthetic clothing dries faster, often wicks better, and is far less likely to retain residual bacteria, fungus, or yeast microbes.
Avoid riding in cotton underwear.
Staying hydrated is an issue as a result of heat sweating all day long, even though the environment may be quite humid. Many people add a little salt and lime/lemon to their water to help absorb water and retain it a little better (the original basis of Gatorade).
Bugs, Mosquito, and Flies can be murderous. Use DEET but, if possible, consider pre-treating all clothing with Permethrin (which can kill or mal-effect cats, cannot allow cat access - READ the Directions and Warnings). Permethrin repels bugs and will last for a few washings. It works on clothing especially synthetic clothing where something like DEET cannot/should not be directly applied. Permethrin cannot be used directly on the body and it is speculated that it should not be used on/around pregnant ladies.
Material things tend to rust quicker in the tropics and there are frequent mechanical issues with rust and other mechanical wear (often caused by hidden moisture corrosion). Excess oil and lubrication attracts and hold dirt/grime - wipe parts, chains, and lube points from excess lube.
Tents should be synthetic and have good netting. Carry net repair kits, but know that I have used duct tape for net repairs. Always carry duct tape.
Consider carrying your own Mosquito Net (with its own method of suspension and/or standing) for use in lodging outside of netted tents.
Many places do not use window screens.
See a medical authority before arriving, take all necessary preventive shots/measures, and start all prevention meds on time (some are ongoing, like for Malaria). Malaria, yellow fever, travelers' diarrhea, and hepatitis A are preventable through the use of vaccines, prophylactic medications.
Higher instance of Reptiles and rodents.
Higher instances of bugs getting to food
Sunscreen
Daywear (uv protection plus wicking, breezy, evaporative)
Calamine and Hydrocortisone creams
Anti fungal / anti biotic creams
Do not display your valuables to the world; this will keep you from being the target of theft.
Do not display jewelry.
Bright colors (such as whites and blues) attract wild animals as well as insects.
Camouflage clothing, is in some cases, illegal to wear.
Never approach a wild animal, even if they appear harmless
Water - it is safer to drink bottled or mineral water, then Boiled water (tea), and manufactured (bottled/canned) sodas and beers are alternative safe beverages.
Stay away from Bush Foods. There is a wide array of sanitation and ethical standards, it is just difficult to tell something like farm grown and restaurant prepared food from a sick or road kill animals or fruit sold on the same dirt roads that animals use.
Oranges and Bananas still rule as safer foods.
See Food Management Issues and Solutions.

Tundra

In Tundra country, the summer Mosquito populations in Alaska and northern Canada can be so dreadful that cyclists (or all humans) need Mosquito Net hats and DEET (or such), and the tents need Mosquito netting (and integrated solid flooring) for protection from Mosquitoes and other bugs in general. In some areas, flies can be just as problematic (Lap and Sami Lands, Yupik and Inuit too).
DEET, DEET, DEET or Insect repellent of your choice;
Nothing works better than DEET.
Bugs, Mosquito, and Flies can be murderous. Use DEET but, if possible, consider pre-treating all clothing with Permethrin (which can kill or mal-effect cats, cannot allow cat access - READ the Directions and Warnings). Permethrin repels bugs and will last for a few washings. It works on clothing especially synthetic clothing where something like DEET cannot/should not be directly applied. Permethrin cannot be used directly on the body and it is speculated that it should not be used on/around pregnant ladies.
Net hats, fully enclosed tents with nets.
The likelihood of snow or freezing temperatures may happen at any time of the year, even during the summer, especially at night.
The Alpine clothing issue is dressing for warmth and layers, especially for cyclists. Cyclists are often pedaling and are therefore warm while doing such, but when they become idle (at rest, break, setting up camp, or conducting maintenance) they can slowly start cooling down and may need a jacket or over-shirt or both (as well as gloves and/or warmer head-gear). The effect can be quite dramatic if the sun is down or going down.
What are common Alpine medical issues? Dehydration, and Physical Exhaustion.
Bring in some or all of the water at night? Very.
Bring a Balaklava/Balaclava for pedaling in that freezing morning air? Consider, Helmet covers too.
It can be very beneficial to wear a hat in camp. Also consider slip-on leggings (like rain pants) as well as good footwear (boots and/or hiking socks).
When Sleeping in a bag at night, a sailors watch cap (lumberjack's knit cap or ski hat) can be very beneficial for staying warm (since the head radiates 110% of the body's heat - old joke, but the head's heat loss is substantially disproportionate to its surface area). Some people can handle being wrapped up in a mummy sleeping bag, but most people cannot, ergo, the knit cap.
Layering is important, cyclists are often working and don't realize how cool it is until they have been idle for a while.
Hydration is important, and dehydration often manifests itself as a headache (Tylenol OK, Aspirin NOT, drink water).
Cook with stove, avoid strong smelling foods. Cook away from camp, never cook in a tent.
Clothing should address full array from hot days to winter storms.
Sunscreen, Lip Balm
Waterproof and Insulated gloves.
Protect the eyes from sun glare (Polarized Sunglasses).
Depending on the region to be visited, there may be issues in common with Plains or Alpine Regions

Mountain/Montane Regions

Mountain/Montane Zones: Everyone seems to grasp the concept of hills and mountains. Many paved-road climbs occur at 4-6 mph/ 6-9 kph and many dirt-road climbs seem to occur at 3-5 mph/5-8 kph. Stopping for rest is required while climbing and it is important to stay hydrated and take little snacks over the course (like a bite of trail mix once every 20 minutes or a small hand full every hour or so - this method of eating is called Birding (eating like a Bird).
It is difficult to pedal at less than 3 mph/5 kph, usually at the point, it is easier to push the bike and its load. Also, if a dirt road is rocky with those thumb to fist sized 'loose rocks' then it may be more efficient to push the bike than to ride the bike.
The steeper climb the harder it is to move your loaded bike up the incline, sometimes it can take all day and there are places in North and South America and in the Himalayas where a cyclist can spend 2 or 5 days 'roller-coastering' up and down the slopes of hills and mountains to a high altitude park (like Leadville, Lake Titicaca, or Hemis).
Warning: Riding a bicycle down some loose rock steep roads can be hazardous to your health; Do NOT be afraid to walk your bike down some slopes.
The best daily biking routine in the mountains is to: start the morning with a climb (because it's usually cold, climbing warms one up, and the cyclist has fresh legs); ride over the pass in the morning (because rain and lightning appear in the afternoon or evenings on most passes); spend the warm part of the day on the lower altitude flats (where and when one is expending the least body energy); and by noon time, start climbing up the next mountain (a sufficient distance to get into trees, cool air, find water, and still leave about 3-5 miles to the next summit).
Don't forget to Eat!
Stick to the rest schedule mentioned in Planning Traps .
It is better to start the day climbing, than descending (cold air).
Lightning in the evenings, stay off those ridgelines.
A lack of Air to breath. See Altitude Sickness and Acclimation Issues.
Higher doses/concentrations of UV light/radiation - Sunscreen.
Typical temperature drops with elevation (not constant): 3.57F per 1000ft / 5.5C per 1000m.
Also see Alpine (life above the mountain treeline).

Travel Direction Planning/Considerations for Geography:

Sun on back, sun on face?
Trade winds (typical wind patterns and direction for certain times of the year).
Sunrise and Sunset: Usually, this isn't an issue to cycling navigation so much as "Be Seen" Issue for Vehicular Traffic.

Culture, Customs, and Respect
For Bicycle Tour Planning

Top, Enough Clothing, Bicycle Clothing Issues, Aditional Clothing Issues, Language Issues, Behavior(s) of Success

The following Cultural and Customs discussions are to be considered an integral set of customs, not as singular things to consider.

Culture and Bicycle Tour Planning:

World Fact Book

Language:

Language Issues

Clothing:

Clothing Issues

Female Alone:

Female on a Bicycle:

There are places where a female is not allowed to ride a bicycle, like North Korea. And there are places where females would never be alone on a bicycle (like parts of Africa, Middle East and some Asian Nations).

Touching, Shaking Hands, Hugging, Kissing:

Left Hand:

In the Muslim faith and among the Desert Tribes from West Africa to Mongolia, the left hand is used to wipe one's butt and a person never eats or greets with the left hand, it is a very big insult to do so. It is improper to touch anything with the left hand that others will touch.

Physical Displays of Affection (PDA):

Muslim Help:

There is a Muslim custom that if one asks for help, they are supposed to help a stranger. Sometimes this custom only applies if the request is spoken in the language of the Koran (Arabic).

Help:

Water:

There is nothing wrong with asking for safe drinking water. Most cultures teach that A Person should NOT be denied water when they ask for it. Even in the American Depression Years, virtually no one was denied water who asked for it. In addition, the further that one is from big cities the more friendly and helpful are the people (no matter the country).

"Bicycles consume less energy per passenger mile than any other form of transport, including walking."
Marcia D Lowe, The Bicycle: Vehicle for a Small Planet

Bicycle Touring Configurations:

Top; Back To: Bicycle Touring Checklist (What to Bring), Back to Bicycle Tour Planning Graphic,
Related Issues: Electronic Device/Accessories Setup (Issues), Touring Equipment and Supplies (Tour Facilitation),
How to Select a Touring Bicycle (Issues - Best Practices).

Bicycle Touring Configurations have evolved to meet different cyclist needs. At present, there seem to be four typical touring equipment setups and few hybrid mixes. This is a generalization and there are no stead fast rules.

Road Bike with Panniers: This setup is the oldest and was influenced by the French, who more or less created first bike mounted bags called Panniers. Pannier or Panier derives from Middle French and Latin meaning Bread Basket (literally: pertaining to bread). Now, Pannier equates to Saddle Bag (as in western horseback riding).

Mountain Bike with Trailer: While the use of trailers is not new, some riders of Mountain Bikes do not like the bike handling with panniers on some narrow trails and they evolved a single wheeled trailer to easily follow in the same single track trail while leaving the bike light and free of accoutrements.

Mountain Bikes: Pannier and Trailer Mixes

Bike with Ultralight Backpack: The bike type doesn't matter and the rider carries a maximum of 20 to 30 pounds of equipment, food, and water, distributed between a backpack and a bag on a rear rack, and maybe a small handlebar bag. Either a Road Bike or a Mountain Bike remains light, maneuverable, and free of major accoutrements. There may be a small bed roll or tent strapped to the handle bar. We have a separate Ultralight Checklist created with a two time Great Divide Race Winner.

Bike with Baggage Support: The cyclist handles the pedaling and touring while a support crew shuttles the luggage from place to place and there can be a wide range of support services (for pay). This is a common bicycling configuration for people who travel by air/train/bus/ship to other/remote/foreign destinations. A cyclist may or may not bring their own bike and may carry one or two panniers to carry personal belongings, weather gear, or purchases. We happen to have a separate Suitcase Travel/Packing Checklist designed for international travel.

Bike with Panniers and Trailer: Usually this is for a long haul (weeks or months) for which the riders are not in a hurry, are self sufficient and living in travel style (at the expense of slightly more weight than average).

Bike with Trailer and Backpack: Usually, a Mountain Biker stretching out the travel load, keeping the bike free of accoutrements, and still traveling relatively lighter than average load(s).

Pannier versus Trailer

A Noteworthy Incident

Bicycle Touring Checklist

Device Setup

How to Select a Touring Bicycle

Additional Gear Carrying Methods/Equipment for Touring (In addition to Saddle Bags and Trailers):

Frame Bags fit inside the area between the Cross Tube, Down Tube, and the Seat Tube (or the bicycle equivalent). These bags are typically used to carry narrow objects and/or may have small pockets. It is typically about three inches wide and may hold additional water bottles, first-aid kit, and objects that are often carried in a handlebar bag. Frame Bags are usually homemade but sometimes may be found online (eBay, Amazon, search, ...). They do increase the side wind profile a little more than any other type of bag. Some are top tube oriented, some are seat tube and top tube oriented, some are top and down tube oriented, and some are full space oriented. These started as home made but can now be found online [check Adventure cycling's Store].

Top of Rack Bags can be found in most bicycle stores as well as online - See far right image's front rack, top.
Handlebar Strap and/or Bag commonly seen on Great Divide Races. It can be a separate elongated bag (about 18"x6" cylinder shape) with independent straps or it can be a combined bag and strap system. Use of such a bag may require adjusting brake and/or shifter layout or grab angle.
Traditional Handlebar Bag commonly seen on long distance tours or road tours. It ranges from about 8"x3" (cylinder shape) to about 14"x10"x10" (lunch box shape). It may mount directly to the handlebar or have an extension mount. There are more details listed under the Bike Tour Checklist's Equipment's Handlebar Bag topic as well as under the Bicycle Touring Tips' Handlebar Bag topic. Bigger sized bags typically have a plastic covered map holder.
Back Pack: It needs to be fitted so that it does not swing with the cyclists pedaling motions. Packs may contain hydration systems (like CamelBack). They typically carry up to 30 pounds of gear or gear plus water, usually the gear is the soft bulky stuff (like clothing).
Wheel Extension allows a cyclist to move the rear wheel further to the rear (about 6-12 Inches or 15-30 Centimeters). This is used for a variety of reasons like for bigger/wider/taller wheels, more stability, longer wheelbase (for more load on the rear end), bigger bags, heavier loads, and supper sized city/urban carry/saddle bags (for shopping goods and such). Found online and in specialty bike catalogs.

XtraCycle Wheelbase Extension and Big Long Bag

XtraCycle: Dogs, Kegs, Kayaks, or Travel Gear

Third Wheel:

In General: These device types have a narrower profile than a trailer and allow a cyclist to have supplies slightly higher off the ground which is a great benefit in Semi-Arid to Desert Climates (to include Chaparral, Savanna, Outback, and Bush environments). Found online and in specialty bike catalogs.
2 Kinds:
One type attaches to the seat mast or post but sometimes to a heavy duty rear rack attachment. This Third Wheel is similar to the device used to add a kid to a saddle and pull him/her behind Mommy or Daddy only there probably is no saddle.
Another type attaches to a special (at extra cost) rear wheel axel that has yoke mounting points (or groves, or something akin to that) so that a large fork-shaped mount may connect and pull the third wheel much like some trailers. This device typically is used to carry additional panniers (saddle bags) and/or bulk water supplies.

Bicycle Touring Checklist

Device Setup

How to Select a Touring Bicycle

Bike Purchase Configuration Considerations

There is some merit in giving thought to bicycle Break Down and bicycle Shipping/Transport Issues. See Bicycle shipping and Transport Issues. Light weight and durability are always good features that support bicycle riding configuration and bicycle shipping/transporting. Of the two features, durability is the best long range and long term feature. Also, before buying a Touring Cycle, see What to look for in a Touring Cycle (there is all kinds of touring bike information worthy of your study).

Touring Configuration Considerations:

When touring, if bikes are the very latest in cool technology, then one has to address security and theft temptation at a higher degree than would be normal.
When touring, if bikes are the very latest in cool technology, then one will probably have to address replacement parts non availability issues.
When touring parties have the same (interchangeable) equipment like tires, rims, tubes, spokes, derailers/dérailleurs, chains, brakes, pads, and cables then less kinds of spare equipment need to be carried.
When touring, if bike components are common and NOT at the bleeding edge of technology, then replacement parts (or solutions) are more likely to be found worldwide.

Bicycle Configuration for Rider and Distance Endurance:
- This Section formerly listed desired ergonomic rider setup methods for a Tour Bike.
- All suggestions have been merged into Rider Comfort and Endurance.
- Also see the Next Section.

"I eat to ride. I ride to eat." - Daniel Behrman, Rider/Writer

Body Conditioning - The Physical Bicycle Tour Preparation

Top, Rider Comfort/Endurance Issues, Choosing a Touring Bicycle/Cycle TOC

A KEY to FUN Bicycle Touring is obtaining the physical and mechanical endurance attributes for moving a heavy load over a variety of terrain, over time. This "key" breaks down into two major components, Cyclist Body Conditioning (discussed here) and Bicycle Touring Configuration (discussed at Touring Setup Configurations).

The Body (Condition for Endurance): We're not saying what a traveler has to do to get one's body into bike endurance shape, but we find that a person needs to be capable of riding Eight Hours total in one day, no matter the road or weather conditions (and not necessarily continuous hours but certainly total hours).

It may be difficult for working people to get 8 hours of riding practice. I have learned that if a person can ride 4 hours without getting a sore butt and/or sore quad muscles, a person will last for 8 hours while on a bicycle tour (spaced with normal breaks). Each Spring, for most seasonal riders, life is an exercise in re-conditioning.
Body Riding Position: Answer - Whatever is comfortable for the long haul.

Discussion: Bicycle design has followed the path of Bicycle Racing. Subsequently, most bike designs are engineered for the rider to present a narrow wind resistance profile (by being sharply bent over while leaning forward) in order to maximize the leg's power stroke to the point that in order to achieve maximum power and leverage, a rider may not actually be seated while using the front handlebar as an immobile force to push against. Frankly, this kind of typical (back, shoulder, neck and arm paining) bike setup potentially discourages half of the probable tour bike riders from ever riding a bike for cross country adventure.

Most Road Bike designs are great for road racing but not for bicycle touring. For touring, one needs to be able to pedal for days at a time and still be physically and mentally capable of enjoying life. Touring is not about racing, it's about enjoying life. Most people can enjoy touring with a different bike set up, designed around comfort for the long haul. Sometimes, a tour rider has to be quite forceful about getting a bike setup the way the rider desires (see the next paragraph).
Body/Bike Ergonomics: We have found ourselves riding more and more erect over time with increasingly wider saddles and we are now using split saddles that are friendlier to anatomical parts. We have shortened or even reversed the handlebar stem in order to move the handlebar grips rearward and we have raised the steering axle tube in order to position the handlebar upward to a coordinate where the hand places itself naturally when one is sitting upright in a saddle.
If the reader has missed the news articles, a mitigating issue is that quite a few professional racers and other speed riders, male and female, who have ridden in the bent over power biking position for decades on narrow saddles, are developing nerve damage maladies in the lower back/spine, crotch, and/or upper leg/thigh areas (often effecting sex drive, and/or the biological capability to become a parent, let alone, effecting normal quality of life with soreness, numbness, or pain).
We have needed more and more body (and butt) break-in time for each season. The significance of this statement is important. We are snowed in during the Winter and we don't get to ride bikes. During the Winter, we can hike or snow shoe for hours at a time, but in the early Spring we can't physically sit on a bike seat for more than a couple of hours - it takes a while to get our derrieres into endurance riding shape. (Like others, we don't have the temperament for stationary biking).

"The first successful aircraft design came from a pair of Bicycle Mechanics"- Dennis Struck

Issues to Consider for Selecting a Tour Bicycle,
What to Consider for Selecting a Tour Bike,
How to Select a Tour Bicycle,

(Requirements/Criteria for Selecting/Making a Tour Bike or Touring Bicycle;
How to Choose a Touring Bicycle)

Top, Touring Bicycle Table of Contents (TOC):

Touring Bicycle Selection Issues/Considerations

(Tour Types, Duration, Surface, Load, Pace, Support, Organization)

Touring Bicycle Frame Issues

(Main Frame, Forks, Stays, Shape, Racks, Suspension, Material)

Touring Bicycle Drive Train Issues

(Chain, Sprockets, Rings, Cranks, Pedals, Shifters, and Derailers)

Touring Bicycle Rider Comfort/Endurance Issues

(Bike Design, Posture, Ergonomics, Condition, Saddle, Challenges)

Touring Bicycle Setup

(Necessary Bike Touring Accessories and their Setup)

Touring Bicycle Wheel Issues

(Tire, Rim, Spokes, Hub, Brake, Reflector and Fender):

Touring Bicycle Caveats

(Tour Bike Selection, Facilitation, Security, or Shipping)

The decision maker is facing an age old design dilemma from the start of the consideration process:

PERFORMANCE or ENDURANCE, pick one.
Any Kind of Component Design result that is between Performance and Endurance,
is a Design COMPROMISE.

SURVIVAL is the most important consideration for a long bike tour.
- THEREFORE -
ALL Bicycle Tour Bike Selection Solutions should gravitate toward ENDURANCE over Performance.

No two tours are the same and no two people are the same

Just because the Marketing Department calls a bicycle a 'Tour Bike',
it doesn't magically make the bike a useful long-distance touring machine.

People who tour on bicycles may need Cycle-logical Evaluation! - Shelly Mossey

Tour Bicycle/Bike Selection Issues/Considerations:

Top How to Choose a Touring Bike - TOC

The following Characteristics of Bicycle Tours can help the reader view the major, global, Bicycle Touring Issues and the subsequent sections look at Bicycle Touring Issues from different Bicycle Types, Designs, and Setup Issues as well as some issues from likely Bicycle Touring Situations.

Attributes of Bicycle Tours, for your Consideration (mixes occur):

Venn Diagram of Bicycle Types from a Touring Perspective.

The Type of Bicycle Tour affects the characteristics
for the Touring Bicycle Selection/Specification.

The following represent a 'Broad View' of Bicycle Touring
(Bike Touring, Bicycle Tour).

This list of Attributes of Bicycle Touring
forms the basis of Tour Bike Requirements.

Typically, the first two items rule the selection decision(s).

Self Contained, Self Guided, Self Supported, Fully Loaded (Weeks)
Expedition (Months)
Day Tours
Ultra-Light (Days), Heavy (Days/Weeks)
Loop (Days)
Large Groups (15+), Small Groups (14-), Couples, Solo
Hired Company, Hired Individual, Self Organized, Group Organized (determines gear to carry)
Guided, Un-guided / Self Guided, Consensus Leadership (determines food and lodging arrangements)
Supported, Un-Supported, Some Distributed Communal Wares (effects what one carries and/or how much one carries)
Pavement Only/Mostly, Off-Road Mostly/Only, Back Roads, Mix of Road/Track Surfaces (definitely a Tire selection issue which reflects on the bike's tire mount/size/style capability/functionality)
Camping, Hotel, B&B, Mix (load, weight, and configuration determining)
Planned in Detail, No Plans (actually quite rare), Loose Time Table, Loose Destination (rare)
Low Cost, First Class (effects what and how much is carried by individuals for the group)
Food Service: Self Cook and Cary; Catered; Some Meals Provided, some not; Tour Group and/or Guide Managed (Cook Ware, Food Quantity, Stove[s] Carried, ...)
Special Purpose Tour(s) (XC Race, Geographic Issues, Hydration, ...)
Pace and/or Distance; Flat, Hills, Mountains; Cyclist Capability (affects planning, timing, scheduling).
Physical Challenge Issues (requires pre-tour solutions)

Note:

Touring Tips

Chris Rishworth, Fully Loaded Bicycle Tour, Jan, 2013; NSW, Australia.

Tour Photo: Chris Rishworth, Walace Craige Lookout;
Fully Loaded Bicycle Tour, January, 2013;
The Barry Way, New South Wales, Australia

"A good Touring Bicycle will always have fenders and racks designed into its development"- Dennis Struck

Touring Bicycle Frame Issues
(Main Frame, Forks, Stays, Shape, Racks, Suspension, Materials):

How to Choose a Touring Bike - TOC

Frame Requirements: A Road Bike frame is just not tough or rugged enough to sustain a long fully loaded bike tour, especially if any off-road riding is required (which is a characteristic of most bike tours). Mountain bike frames are usually OK (tough enough, but maybe not long enough). Road Bike and Mountain Bike frames tend to be too short in length for long term bike tour durability. Road Bikes tend to be built light weight for speed and performance (at the expense of durability/survivability). Road Bikes are not built to carry tour loads (60-80 pounds) for extended periods of time. Generally, Mountain Bikes are tough enough for tour loads but are generally not built for long duration riding comfort.
Tour Bikes need built in mounts (like braze-on mounts) for fenders, racks, and/or water bottle cages (these necessary items should not be after thoughts for a tour bike frame). Tour bikes must be pannier friendly. The frame needs to be tough enough to handle rear pulling and/or side pulling stresses and/or load weight of a loaded bike rack, pannier, trailer or an added wheel (3rd Wheel).
Usually Steel has the best endurance and is the easiest to fix/repair, worldwide. Aluminum is OK for light weight and toughness issues, but Aluminum costs more and Aluminum Mechanics or technicians are not available in most of the world; Steel Welders are the least difficult to find. The same problem exists with Titanium frame issues and repairs, it is difficult to find a repair tech. Forget about Carbon Fiber, it is just not a durable material for bike touring. Survival is the key to long distance bike touring and durability matters.
Tour Bikes need to be Load bearing (30-100 pounds of gear [plus the rider], 70-80 pounds is very typical [gear + camp equipment + food + water]). On Road Bikes and Mountain Bikes the rider tends to sit far to the rear because of a short wheel base and short drive train for performance purposes but when pannier weight and/or rack loaded weight are added, it tends to make the bike very heavy in the back and very light in the front [a handling problem]. However, an elongated bake frame, especially from adding room behind the rider by using elongated chain and seat stays, allows a rider better front-rear balanced riding control (see next bullet). This concept, of course, fits with other elongated/longer frame requirements or proposals for better touring bike designs.
A longer bike frame, especially for riders of traditionally short-length bikes, yields far greater handling control over washboard roads. This is particularly important for those times that a rider is riding downhill, minding their own business and enjoying the view, when suddenly they come upon washboard bump conditions at a higher rate of speed than they would normally use when riding over washboards. Washboards are treacherous for short-length bikes and the solution is to secure a longer length bike (but not an overall bigger bike frame, just longer). Traditionally this is done by moving the rear wheel further back from the seat post and away from the crank/bottom bracket, therefore also lengthening the seat and chain stays. Note that shock absorbers will not eliminate the steering control problem of a light front end. From an Engineering Perspective this is more analogous to a long ship riding across many waves compared to a short boat riding up and down each wave. Additionally, better manueverbility is obtained if the cyclist can turn the wheel without hitting their own foot
A longer bike frame, for better steering maneuverability on the front end, is obtained if the cyclist can turn the wheel without hitting their own foot (no matter the foot position). In emergency situations or for BMX type riding situations, riders with free feet (not strapped, clipped, or locked in the pedal) often center their shoe/boot at the foot's arch (just in front of the heel, the heel acts as a catch on the pedal) - All positioning is a waste of energy and a wastes of effort if the rider cannot steer and turn (maneuver) because the front top is hitting their two and stopping a full emergence turn.
A longer bike frame, so the rider (or stoker) is not hitting the rear panniers with their heel.
Tour Bikes need to have Ground clearance (one rides over big rocks, big holes, obstacles, and curbs). A tour bike should be able to ride up/over/down a curb without pedaling a crank ring or pedal into the obstacle and hopefully not dragging its chain across the obstacle. This is not an issue for Mountain Bikes but it is contrary to most Road Bike designs (which aim for low center of gravity riding for maneuver performance).
Frame Sizing rules change from Road Bikes to Tour Bikes configurations. Tour bikes need a higher ground clearance (than a road bike's bottom tube) but not a proportionately higher top tube. The resulting tour bike profile may have a more elongated look. In fact, one may need to lower the top tube so as to step across the top tube for bike mounting, as very often an item like a tent or sleeping bag may be (can be) strapped across the top of a rear rack thus preventing the ol' Swing the Leg Over the Saddle mounting method that is common to most road bike riders and mountain bikers (male and female).
Tour Bikes need a longer wheelbase (takes bumps easier and gives the rider and frame better endurance, smoother ride, better handling stability for loads, improved washboard situation endurance, and most importantly a longer chain run favors a larger quantity of usable front and rear gear combinations).
Fork/Front-End: A tour bike should be able to ride directly into a curb (to go over at a slow speed) and not bend a fork nor snake bite a tube (therefore also supporting a tougher tube, rim, and tire assembly). This tour bike property supports pot hole survival/endurance much more so than on a road bike.
Experienced Bike Tourers and Bike Designers argue about whether to tour with front shocks (or shock mount handlebar systems). It appears to be a personal preference and it correlates nicely to the expectation of riding mostly on road or off road. Shock mounts do add to weight and they yield a slightly longer shipment assembly time. There are different shock designs (air, hydraulic, spring, and combination systems) that yield different durability probabilities - One usually selects durability over performance features. Bike shops and designers are usually up to date on the ride, assembly, maintenance, and durability/performance issues. The decision must be made before a bike design/purchase, because changing a fork system after the fact affects all related ride features.
Racks and Suspension: It is easier to find rack mounts (for panniers) for rigid suspension bicycles. It is slightly easier to ship and assemble bikes with rigid suspensions. It is difficult to find quality touring racks for shock/flexible suspension bicycles (that can hold 50 pounds of weight over multiple long distance tours). Flexible suspension racks do exist but it is terribly difficult to find a rack for a specific bike/situation/set-up. These are considerations to address before one buys/orders/makes a bike frame. Most people forego a flexible suspension for touring but some people have physical needs for a front suspension or a full suspension bike.
Pannier Rack Highlights:
- All About Pannier Racks
- All About Panniers
- All About Handlebar Bags
- Pannier Rack Bolts are usually the first bolts to work loose on the road/trail.
- All About Threadlock, Purple is Best, Blue is OK (best if only carry one threadlock agent), Do NOT use Red.
- Rack Durability is more important than looks or performance.
- Panniers need the ability to adjust the mount, low mount is usually best (see About Panniers).
- Racks with top plate/deck serve more needs than if absent.
- Top plate/deck best, front and rear, if flush across the top (or tied down gear bags wear faster).
- Pad the rack's top plate/deck (reduces noise, reduces bag wear). Some use foam padding, some use small pipe insulation, some use self stick rubber pads.
- Caution: Seat mounted racks are very limited in weight capacity, some are limited to 10 pound loads.
Suspension Seats and Handlebars: Some people (need to) setup their bikes, often after purchasing the bike, with shock/suspension seat posts and/or handlebar stem shock/suspension mounts - it can be an after purchase solution for a physical need to have a suspension ride. When road riding, for the most part, control is not an issue, but control can be an issue when one needs to be correcting their course while the suspension seat or handlebar is flexing at the same time that one is steering or pedaling - it takes a short while to become accustomed to these features (flexible steering or pedaling) and some people cannot adapt to either of these features.
Drive Train: Tour Bikes need a longer chain, chain-stays, and drive train (this is a huge big deal, it gives the rider more gearing options, less chain rub [or none] when out of chain line alignment or 'cross chaining'). This desired feature melds nicely with the concept of an elongated Bike Tour frame.
Tires: Tour Bikes need to be built for wider tires (usually about 1.5 inches has the best endurance, but the frame should be able to facilitate 2.25 inch mountain knob tires).
Control: Please note that some people do not like the handling of a bike with fully loaded panniers, especially on the front wheel. Bike handling is especially a big deal when riding on mountain sides (narrow trails/paths) and this is why some mountain bike riders may pull a single-wheel trailer. So far there are no bikes designed specifically for pulling a trailer (with factory mounts or a combination system for a trailer and pannier mounting).
Warnings (Rider Weight, Frame Shape, Single Wheel Trailer): Please note that some small frame bikes and some less common shaped bikes (other than diamond/trapezoid shape, to include most girl frames and mono-tubes) may have problems pulling a single-wheel trailer, this safety issue may be associated with light weight people as well (seemingly under 125 pounds). There are some Bike and Single-Wheel-Trailer combinations (perhaps Bike and Trailer and People combinations) that have resulted in bicycle steering/handling problems (frame shake or resonance steering control dangers that have resulted in bike crashes). If a touring cyclist is in this category, then be very cautious and/or maybe stay only with pannier based rigs or two-wheel trailer rigs. Read about Shake Recovery.
Weight: More weight causes faster chain and bike wear. More weight requires more cyclist energy.
Rider Strength: Some people just cannot pedal big loads and they physically must travel very light (often at the cost of some material convenience) - These cyclists are often less than 110 pounds in their own body weight and they can tour very well with the right setup. On occasion the right setup may involve your favorite bike shop or a specialist bike store that works with physically challenged people - There are plenty online. In the Colorado Springs area one should contact Angle Tech Cycles.
Kick Stand: Considered dead weight in Road Bike circles and it is considered as a obstacle catching contrivance in Mountain Bike Circles. Side mounted kickstands are a waste of time and money (even in the Tour Bike world). However, a bipod stand on a Touring Bike has a few conveniences: it can remain standing under breezes, it keeps a bike and it's components and personal gear out of the dirt, it minimizes (to a greater extent) exposure to creepy crawlers and things that slither, but most importantly a bipod allows one to do maintenance on the drive train and work on related rear wheel system issues (because one can raise the rear wheel off the ground).
Other Frame or Setup Solutions: Recumbent bike frames (with the right setup) favor many physical human challenges. Recumbent bikes are not allowed in most long distance bike races because they out-perform most diamond frame bike designs (everything else being equal) - Go figure.
Recumbents (and Tandems) don't ship/pack as easily as diamond frame bikes. Another bike shipping issue is that Touring bikes tend to be bigger than road bikes and may cost more to ship. All of the touring gear together will always add to the total bike shipping weight and it is not unusual to be over the 50 pound weight penalty for some airline shipping.
Transport/Shipping: If one is going to conduct international flights or shipping for bike touring, then be sure that the bike can be easily packed. Consider frame break down (like S&S couplers) or fold-up bikes (like BikeFridays). Give consideration to re-usable packing boxes or cases and give consideration to cases that can be used as trailers. There can be many logistical issues to consider (see next bullet). Most expedition bikers ship and use their own solid frame bikes; however one may buy or rent bikes at or near the Tour's start location. Also, consider reading about Bike Shipping.
A bike that breaks down for shipping should have a come-apart drive chain (like SRAM Quick-Links) and removable rear derailer and quick connect shift and/or brake cables. The quick connect shift cable allows a person to disconnect a derailer and then reconnect the derailer without having to re-tune the derailer (invented by and sold by daVinci Designs - found online). The quick connect brake cable facilitates easier, no worry, removal of the handlebar without having to manage several feet of attached brake cable and it prevents having to re-attach the cable to the pinch bolt, over and over (which destroys the cable end). Hint, many long range cyclists meld solder into the brake and shifter cables at their ends and in the area of the pinch bolt contact [solder binds the cable together and prevents or slows down cable fraying].
The net effect of designing a bike for shipping tends to shorten the frame length, shrink the frame size to rider ratio, rob space from the bike for mounting accessories, rob rider ergonomic positioning, and lighten the bike such that material strength is reduced.
Generally, even with the recent added Air Carrier baggage cost increases, it is usually less expensive to pay the added Air Carrier Costs than to send a bike via Air Freight (with UPS or FedX for example). The advantage of sending a bike Air Freight is that one does have to limit their Air Plane luggage (by the bike or accessory weight difference[s]), one does not have the hassle of extra check-in and check-out time nor extra baggage inspection time (very often bicycles are picked up and dropped off at the air carrier's Freight Office which is a different location than used for regular suit-case check-in/check-out), and one does not have to deal with the burden of lugging extra luggage at the air port nor enroute (like in a taxi or bus).

About Touring Bicycle Drivetrains and Issues
(Chain, Sprockets, Rings, Cranks, Pedals, Shifters, and Derailers):

How to Choose a Tour Bike - TOC

Common Mechanical Problems and Solutions

The bicycle needs a power drive train setup that specifically facilitates a person to pedal uphill all day long, carrying/towing a load, while the rider is in a seated position. By hill, we mean a mountain, by pedal, we mean climbing 7,000 Feet (~ 2,000 Meters) in a day, sometimes twice a day.
One usually needs a minimum of three front rings and a supporting front derailer for climbing but some bikes may use a special rear hub gear box device for some Tour Bike situations.
One needs to be able to ride up a steep slope sometimes. It is OK to push a bike (this happens on many interesting global type tours), but one should not have to push a bike for a long time nor very far. One needs good gearing for hill climbing.
Longer chain runs are a whole lot more forgiving about chain line issues (thus making the system more durable).
One should consider another drive train or another bike if one cannot pedal a Touring Bike in full cross chain situation (without chain side grinding noises). For example, on a 3x9 drive train (3 front rings and 9 rear sprockets), one should be able to bike in a 1-9 combination or a 3-1 combination (which on a short drive train will make grinding cross-chain noises) - granted that one may need to trim the front-derailer (see next bullet).
Front Derailer Trim means being capable of moving a shifter to an interim setting between full shifts. For example, if there is an interim index click/position between the #1 ring (low gear/granny front ring) and the #2 ring which allows a 1-9 (ring-sprocket) combination that does not make chain rub noises on the front derailer's cage/basket (and there is no sprocket-ring side chain rub/grinding noise) then that gives a much more flexibility and capability for long riding duration than if not. This is very much a performance bike versus touring bike issue - A road bike is significantly shorter in length (ergo a shorter drive train length) only to cut down on bike weight (rider comfort and bike endurance are not concerns of performance/race riding/biking). See Comfort/Endurance Issues in the next section.
A good touring Front-Derailer will facilitate interim trim positions. 1) This allows for what would be called a cross chain operation on shorter drive trains (by being able to move the rail cage off the chain). 2) As wear and tear occur over time, trimming a derailer often allows a cyclist to postpone a mandatory trail side derailer adjustment - allowing a rider to ride through a trying circumstance. [This statement is not advocating delayed maintenance, just appreciating that on special occasions a good endurance bike may support a slight delay before maintenance on the drive train for a kind of tough touring bike that is sometimes called a 'War Horse' - it endures well under stress].
Brake and Shifter Controls: Integrated brake/shift systems were created for performance purposes (lighter weight and race speed performance, and not for endurance nor for maintenance). Integrated brake/shift systems are much more difficult to repair or replace than separate brake and shifter setups. One problem with integrated brake/shifter systems is that they are often unprotected (mistake #1) - Bar-Ends can be used for protection. And Two, being combined makes trail/road side maintenance much more difficult than that of separate systems (mistake #2) - This can make bike tour survival more difficult. Integrated brake/shifter systems are seldom repairable (they are usually swapped out for a new assembly), granted that one does not normally carry brake levers or shifter assemblies as a spare part on a tour.
Rear Derailer Multi Gear Shifting: The act of mountain biking and mountain touring often presents a need to be able to shift through more than one gear at a time, especially when climbing with a load. Such 'skip gear' and 'jump gear' shifting can easily be performed on Grip Shifters and most Trigger Shifters but not on Integrated Shifters. Experience has shown that passing over one and sometimes two rear cogs is manageable by most rear derailers, however most derailers cannot handle passing over three rear cogs (as the amount of time that it takes for the chain to re-rail robs the cyclist of the bike's forward speed). Mountain Styled shifters perform a little better in the mountains than their Integrated Shifter counterpart for fully loaded climbs, all cyclists need to be down shifting ahead of the need.

Touring Bicycle Rider Comfort/Endurance Issues:
(Bike Design, Posture, Ergonomics, Condition, Saddle, Challenges)

How to Choose a Touring Bicycle - TOC

Body Conditioning and Rider Ergonomics

Frame Designs that work for Road Bicycle Speed and Performance often will not work for Touring Bicycles or for a rider's personal long term Endurance. A longer bike yields a smoother (more enduring) ride to the cyclist. A longer drive train enables a wider use of all available gear (ring/sprocket) combinations. See previous section.
Steering: A longer frame and geometry from the front tire to a rider's foot on the pedal should be such that if a rider had the pedal under the arch (not ball of foot) then the rider's shoe toe area should NOT touch the front tire. This area tends to get shortened for race bikes and for road bikes but should not be shortened for tour bikes.
Tires: Wider Tires (1.5 to 1.75 inch widths are more supportive of long distance rider endurance than race skinny tires - Also, further discussed under Wheel Issues). Skinny tires wear out too fast, have more flats, and do not perform off-road for very long.
Posture: Riding bent over for hundreds of miles gets tiresome in a hurry, one needs a multiple rider position capability and one way to achieve this by having bigger/longer handlebars that allow multiple holding positions for the hand (thus giving other hand, arm, shoulder, back, and neck muscle groups a way to relax while still pedaling). The riding posture that allows a rider to last the longest is to ride sitting upright (basic human ergonomics).
Rider Position Over Time: Quite typically, the older any rider has become, the more upright a rider needs to sit. One specifically needs to address the riding base posture and the capability to take on multiple positions in order to systematically rest or relax certain muscles or muscle groups while still pedaling.
Saddle: The more that one needs to sit up-right (often associated with age and/or riding over time) the more that one needs a wider seat (often called a saddle).
There are some seat designs that facilitate reduced crotch or butt nerve irritation over time. Riding with the back prone for long periods of time (years) has been known to cause male and female reproductive issues and it has caused, in some circumstances, irrecoverable nerve damage and or pain.
Sometimes a modified chair is needed for long term rider endurance/survival (recumbent style).
Prepare yourself for Bicycle Tour riding: No matter the type of saddle, all riders need bicycle sitting experience over time to be able last all day in the saddle. This is also called Butt Break-In Time, no-one can go several months without riding much and then take off on a bike tour without feeling the pain of more time in the saddle than the body can handle.
Handlebars need to facilitate multiple hand and arm positions. On mountain bikes with more or less straight bars, long bar ends serve to facilitate different body positions. Drop Bars probably offer the most rider positions, as is. Note that there are aftermarket drop bar arm rests and there is a manufacturer that makes a kind of upright handlebar extension that works on most other kinds of handlebar designs/shapes.
A bicyclist will feel better at the end of the day if they can ride in a variety of positions. Changing the rider's position allows the resting of some muscles while working other muscles - this is a characteristic of all long distance riders. A handlebar that facilitates a variety of riding positions will enhance rider endurance, especially in the long haul. Traditional drop bars meet this requirement, in fact we have seen drop bars mounted on cross country mountain bikes and we have seen forearm rests mounted on tour bikes. The addition of bar-ends can help tremendously for any handlebar. There are P shaped handlebars, H shaped handlebars, C shaped handlebars, drop bars (traditional road style), inverted drop bars (for bend-over relief, much like upright bar ends), half-drop bars, L shaped add-on bars, and other aftermarket handlebars designed for long distance touring (or rider special needs).
Touring handlebars should be tougher and longer in tube length (side to side handlebar width). Performance Handlebars are usually small in size, length, and lightweight (designed for a narrow profile bent over race position). Touring Bike Handlebars need to be able to mount additional hardware/accessories on the handle bar (or sometimes on the bike Stem/Headset). See next Tour Bike Setup section.
Wider and beefier Handlebars (wider than stock bars on performance road bikes) allow better control of a pannier loaded front wheel.
Handlebars should be strong enough to be able to take a few mishaps/drops/crashes.
Stem-Riser/Steering-Tube: Sometimes the stem-riser needs to be taller (longer) to accommodate a cyclist's sitting more upright position. This will raise the center of gravity and it can make quite the moment/lever when a handlebar bag is added (therefore, it is easier for the bike to fall over when resting on something or if the bike is on a side mounted kick stand). Sometimes, raising the riser requires a shorter stem piece or even a reversal of the stem piece.
Physical Challenges: Sometimes one needs to address a special bike configuration just for body mechanics; in fact maybe a special setup may be required and maybe another style of touring bike is needed, like a recumbent, quad, trike, or special tandem. There are plenty of Bike Shops online that cater to the Physically Challenged Cyclist. It happens that Colorado Springs has a special group of guys that work with physically challenged cyclists at Angle Tech Cycles.

Touring Bicycle Setup (Necessary Bike Touring Accessories and their Setup):

How to Choose a Tour Bicycle - TOC

Lights (front and rear - be aware that gear tied to a rear rack often blocks a rear light mounted on the seat, seat bag, seat stem, seat stay or seat post)
Bar End, Extra Bar, Bar Rest (both for multi-position ride duration comfort as well as to protect the brake lever and sometimes the shifter lever when a bike falls over as well as for crash protection)
Bell, Alarm, Polite Noise Maker
Computer-Speedometer-Odometer
Handlebar Bag, Map Case, Trip Notes, GPS Mount
Water Bottle Cages and Bottles (more is better)
Fenders (front and rear)
Pannier Racks (front and rear)
Mirror (can also be helmet or glass frame mounted) - everyone should ride with a mirror
Reflectors (frame, wheel, clothing, baggage, pannier, trailer, ...)

Note:

Bicycle Tour Checklist

Bicycle Camping Checklist

Bicycle Load Carry Configuration

Touring Bicycle Wheel Issues
(Tire, Rim, Spokes, Hub, Brake, Reflector and Fender):

How to Choose a Tour Bike - TOC

Wheel Systems should handle the additional weight of touring loads, still ride comfortably, and have a commonly available tire/size. This issue needs to address all of the wheel components (Tire, Rim, Spokes, Hub, Brake, as well as address the Brake system and Fender Dust, Dirt, Gravel, and Mud Protection).
Tires Size Issue #1: The best Sized Tire Short Answer is 26 inches. The Long Answer has to do with shipping. The best/desired tire size is directly affected by shipping. In the USA, and other international airlines copy this policy, any shipping case is LIMITED to 62 linear inches total measure or the person carrying/shipping the container must pay OVERSIZE Baggage FEES. Many bike carry cases are 26 X 26 X 10 inches, such that the linear count is 62 inches (26 + 26 + 10 = 62 linear inches). It is not worth buying/owning/having a case unless it meets the commercial carrier's maximum acceptable size which is usually 62 linear inches.
Tires Size Issue #2: The average wheel hub width is 5 inches (sometimes the rear hub is a little wider and the front hub is a little narrower). In a 10 inch wide shipping case, hubs will knock/rub into one another UNLESS the wheels are offset from one another. Thus explaining and supporting the importance of a 26" tire size, larger tire dimensions rob capacity from a case that is limited to 62 linear inches.
Tires Size Issue #3: This sounds silly but make sure that the front and rear bicycle tire are the same size or else the cyclist will probably have to carry two different tubes and maybe three different shipping cases ($$$$$).
Tires Size Issue #4: This sounds even sillier but make sure that the front and rear bicycle tire are have the same type of tire valve or else the cyclist will probably have to carry two different tubes and maybe two different pumps. I have only actually seen this problem in way remote bicycle rental situations but if you are not looking for such an issue, then the problem can be sprung upon you. I have never seen a dual pump that worked as desired for more than a few months.
Experience: We place the wheel into a case with foam pads duct taped to each case wall and we offset the wheels by pushing one edge down such that the wheel sits in the case in a tilted geometric plane (compared to the wall of the case). We then put a little foam pad between the hubs and offset the next wheel placement (parallel to the other wheels plane). Depending on the actual tire diameter, we may or may not deflate the tire BUT we only deflate the tire to make the wheel (tire + rim) fit into the shipping case. No consideration is given to deflation for air pressure - we give consideration only to making sure that the wheel is snug in its case
Don't get 700 mm tires nor 29" tires for international rides - Doing the Math: If one were to use 700 mm tires (27.55 inches) then the remaining width of the case would be 7 inches (62 - 27.5 - 27.5 = 7 inches), thus only having enough room for 1 typical sized hub (same issue for the even bigger 29" tires).
Reflectors: Keep or add-on the bike Reflectors (including non-wheel reflectors). Being seen at night is a big deal. Most people remove reflectors for performance purposes (a lighter bike goes faster). Touring cyclists want to be seen at night, it is more important than shaving a second off of the travel time. Sooner or later: 1) Everyone will find themselves on the road at night (it often results from: poor directions, poor planning, or a mid day delay/incident). 2) A touring cyclist may set up an emergency camp at night on a lonely unused dirt road and wake up to an XC Jeep with Night Lights performing a night run (don't ask) - You want to be seen versus being run over in your sleep.
Rim(s): Stock rims may eventually crack or wear thin from braking activity or load stress. Sometimes, this stress, including mountain trail riding, may result in broken spokes, spoke stretch, spoke nipple (nut) loosening, and wheel wobble issues. One activity that usually needs to be done is to buy/install beefier wheel rims. Heavy Duty Rims typically have a stronger material, thicker material, more spokes, stronger spoke fittings, and/or better quality spokes. The majority of New Bicycles are not sold with Heavy Duty touring wheels. Heavy Duty wheels (often an aftermarket purchase) endure better than most stock bicycle wheels. Most bicycle shop techs can be very helpful in helping a cyclist to secure a suitable touring wheel/rim setup. Often, only the rear wheel is at issue. Many touring cyclists only beef up the rear wheel. Again, a bicycle shop technician can help address this topic/issue.
Heavy duty rims are especially important if touring with clamp on brake systems but note that disk brake systems are better for loaded touring bike longevity.
The best type of touring rim is A Shaped (called Aero, for Aerodynamic), the very design allows more weight to be carried and it can take more abuse than flat C Shaped rims. Aero rims cannot work with clamp type brake systems but only with disk brake systems. It happens that Aero shaped rims are faster than flat C shaped rims, everything else being equal.
Spokes: Flat (aerodynamic) spokes require more wheel time maintenance and are not touring durable, avoid. Tapered end spokes are OK but full round spokes seem to endure best. Use thicker than stock issue round spokes (2.0 mm or bigger = 14 gauge or smaller g value). Use a 3x or 4x lacing pattern (4 cross preferred, 3 cross quite OK), with a count of 48 spokes (48 is best in the 26 inch to 700 mm wheel size, 40-44 is OK, the spoke count is usually in multiples of 4).

Tube (Presta versus Schrader): Schrader valves are slightly bigger, more durable, easier to operate, and more serviceable at any petro/gas station air pump (on earth). I have never seen a fuel station pump that would handle Presta valves, therefore a touring cyclist should always have a Presta/Schrader valve converter (costs about $3, found at most bike shops). Presta valves are smaller, lighter in weight, have a slightly smaller wind resistance profile, and are a little more problematic to operate (than Schrader Valves) - they require screwing the valve in or out for closing and opening (this is in addition to a valve cap). Always cover valves with a valve cap for touring (not done for racing, lighter weight).
Every tour biker has a 'I hate Presta Valves story'. However, due to the narrow top (on the spoke side) of the Aero rim (a double walled, A shaped rim, the best for touring) most manufacturers will only make narrow hole openings for tubes, ergo while the Schrader Air Stem/Valve is the most common in the world (the same as car tire valves), most manufacturers will only provide a narrow hole opening (for rim stress safety purposes) and therefore only tubes with narrower Presta Air Stem/Valves will fit/work.
There are people/cyclists that drill out the Aero rim holes for Schrader Valve sized tubes. For liability purposes, manufacturers and bike shops will not perform this task, but I have not actually heard of anyone who has caused rim damage or a rim failure. While I have not done this, I imaging that the drill-out must be done with drill precision, leaving a perfect hole (no chips, not oblong, and just big enough to take a Schrader valve and stem).
Many hardware stores, sporting goods stores, retail outlets (like Sears and Target), gas stations and tire shops may carry standard bike tube sizes with Schrader valves and do NOT or will NOT carry bike tubes with Presta valves. Always carry at least one spare tube (and a tube repair kit) no matter the valve type. On week long or longer tours carry two spare tubes if riding solo and insure that others have at least one spare tube each (and insure that the spare tubes match the tire type). See Tire Repair Issues.
There are punch-out spacer rings sold on the bicycle after market (found in some bike shops as well as online) to put in a Schrader rim sized hole that will resize the hole to fit a Presta (smaller sized) air valve, so as to allow either a Schrader or Presta sized valve/tube to be used, thus facilitating an easier to find Schrader valve tube (for emergency purposes, if starting with Presta stemmed tubes). Thus a rim with such a knock-out spacer will increase the tour's endurance/survival factor/probability. Please note that this kind of flat ring/spacer will not properly fit in a curved Aero rim's top hole (spoke side).
Pump: Avoid automatic Presta/Schrader selector pumps with dual outlets; they always fail, usually sooner than later. Manual selector pumps do work but they are usually too big and heavy to carry on a bike tour. Pumps with one outlet seem to work the best in the long run (versus duel air outlet) - usually one has to manually change the valve fitting between Presta or Schrader valve types. It would be a perfect world if all tire valves were the same, but even in the bike tour world, most bikes are Presta and the trailer is Schrader - Yes, it would be nice to have the same valve and there are bikers that always make that conversion before a major bike tour. I try to avoid brand names, but the ToPeak Mountain Morph (no longer made) and the ToPeak Road Morph is the only pump that I ever used that actually reached the advertized 100 PSI (and 110 pound cyclists have also attained the same 100 PSI).
Tires: 26 inch tires and Euro 700 mm (diameter, 700mm = 27.5 inches) tires are the most common tire diameter sizes in the world (don't use 700 c tires, they are road bike tires). One wants commonly available touring tires and rim sizes. Tire availability is a functioning characteristic of Survival.

Wider tires (versus narrow racing tires) last longer, absorb bumps better, and endure better [Adventure Cycling]. Everything else being equal about a touring bike, wide tires statistically yield less flats. Yes, there is a change in performance (which is why racing tires are narrow). Racing tires do not endure long rides that are measured in weeks, period.
Good Touring Wheels generally have more spokes, thicker/tougher spokes, and a 3x or 4x spoke lacing pattern (pronounced Three Cross or Four Cross).
The Tires of a Touring Bicycle need to be a little wider and thicker than Road Bike Tires; 1.5 to 1.75 inch widths are more supportive of long distance rides than race skinny tires. Touring bike tires need to be able to handle heavier loads, last longer than road bike tires, facilitate a smoother ride (for the load), and take a little more abuse (usually at the cost of being slightly thicker and heavier).
Whereas Tread is almost a non issue for road bike tires, Touring Tires need to be able to minimally perform in non-pavement conditions and may need to have some degree of dirt traction knobbing to the probability of off road use (there is always some off road riding on a tour).
Trailer Wheel Tire(s) do NOT need any tread, in fact, the slicker/smoother that they are, the easier the effort it is to pull the trailer behind a bike. Trailer tires DO need to be tough enough to resist tire wear as well as to resist thorn punctures.
Additional Wheel and Tire information may be found at this site's ALL About Wheels link.
Caution: A few Trailer Wheel Rims need to address the heavy duty stress issue and people over 200 pounds need to address the heavy duty wheel/rim stress issue up-front.
Brakes

Disk Versus Clamp (or Drum): It comes down to this (which has actually happened to this author). A Clamp Brake wears down the Rim Side of the very Rim upon which one's International Tour depends for carrying the cyclist and all that gear. I have ridden a rim until it cracked from wear - If you think about it, the idea of a Rim Brake is Dangerous.

Warning: The RIM CLAMP style Brake can and does wear out the side of the wheel rim from repeated brake activity, it is only a matter of 'When', NOT 'If' the rim will wear out to the point of failure. Touring on Rim Brakes is Dangerous to One's Life.

A disk (rotor) is a separate item that fits on the wheel's hub and when a disk/rotor wears down, one simply easily replaces just the disk and the wear does not affect the rim. Granted, that stop and go movement does affect the torsional spoke to rim/hub flexing; no matter if the wheel has clamp, disk, or any other kind of brake. There are drum (hub) brakes which were an intermediate solution used on HD Solo and Tandem Bikes before disk brakes were widely available at a reasonable cost (drum brakes, IMHO, should no longer be suggested for new bikes or new wheel systems if disk brakes are available).

When changing brake systems one should get a new wheel (hub with rotor, spokes, and HD Rim [an 'A' shaped Aero style rim is best]). There are different sized diameter disks, talk to your favorite bike shop/mech/tech for issues and suggestions; generally, bigger (to a point) is better, especially between a choice of two sizes (everything else being equal). Select common sized rotors/disks (easier to replace in remote countries), insure that both wheels have disk brake systems, and insure that the both disk brake systems are of the same rotor size. Note that on tours, we no longer carry a spare rotor but we do carry one set of spare brake pads. A cyclist can continue touring on just one disk brake. It is statistically improbable that both pads would wear out at the same time or that both rotors would be unusable at the same time.
Cable operated Disk Brakes Versus Hydraulic: Cable is generally more mechanically dependable than hydraulic disk systems. Hydraulic fluid, while still permitted to be carried on airplane flights, but only in stored luggage, cannot be carried on person or carried in carry-on luggage. Supposedly, the fluid from bicycle hydraulic systems is to be drained for shipping but I have never actually heard of this being enforced. Shipping a dry bike, adding fluid and then removing air out of a hydraulic system for destination setup/usage can be a difficult to task to perform (it will need a brake fluid bleed system and knowledge of how to use it), but some people still ship or fly their bikes in this manner.
Note, if one ever has a leak, be it from a bike or a fluid container in a suit case, one may have a messy situation on their hands from other people's damaged goods. Imagine a leaking hydraulic fluid bottle in a suitcase located above a lady's suitcase where the lady is flying home with her custom made wedding dress. For the record, this is when one should consider shipping their hydraulic dry bike to and from a bike shop (or have a cable operated disk brake system).
Rotors/Disks (Brake Disks and Rotors are names for the same thing):
- The Type of Brake Disk/Rotor Matters and there is a Suspected Rear Brake situation to be aware! Riders should request rapid cooling rotors; these rotors are usually the kind of rotor that have many holes or slots and the rotors may be of a special composite or ceramic sandwich construction.
  Caution: It is suspected, by my own experience, that full sized rear panniers may dam the air while in motion and perhaps to some degree block/reduce the normal flow of air to/across the rear disk, thus perhaps preventing the disk/rotor from normal cooling. If any part of a brake system is too hot it does not operate as efficiently as when it is cool - In a worst case scenario, any super hot brake will probably fail to operate properly. This is not an issue of using the front brakes more or more often (as front brakes do stop any bicycle or motorcycle more efficiently than a rear brakes). It is more a matter of rear brakes not cooling down as quickly as front brakes (generally front brakes have direct air flow across the pads and/or rotor, even with large front panniers mounted). Most bike techs will know about rapid cooling rotors but probably will not know about the issues as related to fully loaded bicycle touring.
- It is wise to remove brake rotors for shipping. Re-installation is easy and straight forward and requires having the right tool, but everyone on a bike tour should have and carry a brake rotor install tool (usually it is a T-25 Torx Tool but other types and sizes do exist). Know your bike's requirements tool and torque. Some multi-tools have a T-25 Torx Key. We store the rotors in individual zipper plastic bags and then place them inside a homemade (with duct tape) corrugated cardboard envelope for shipping. Carry the bolts ins separate plastic bags or one or two will disappear in shipping.
  Caution: We have had loose bolts disappear in air-transport and we have had loosely attached bolts disappear in air-transport. There is no explanation but the result will leave the biker having to look for replacement bolts at the travel destination. Warning: Do NOT touch the brake pad contact area on a rotor. A little finger oil can weaken the effectiveness of a brake system. Do pick-up and hold a brake rotor by the edge of the inside spokes. Use rubbing alcohol to clean and remove oil from brake rotors (these are the same instructions as for Halogen Lamps, NO Touching on the lamp glass).

Braking Technique Matters: Dangerous Clamp/Rim Brake Issue

Background Knowledge: As with automobiles, motorcycles, and bicycles, when one brakes hard on dry level hard surfaces the weight of the vehicle gets heavy on the front wheels and light on the rear wheels; in some cases the rear wheel may lock in place and still slide across the road surface because the weight on the wheel is too light to be effective. On the other hand, there is relatively much more weight on the front wheel such that the front brake is extremely effective in stopping or slowing the vehicle when strong braking is effected. HOWEVER: on a motorcycle or bicycle, sometimes if one locks the front brake, then the vehicle may lock the front wheel and the inertia may flip the rider over the handlebar (called a Header by cyclists [been there, done that]). This is problematic on light weight/load cycle conditions, for example on solo bikes carrying no load. Flipping a bike is less of a problem on loaded tour bikes or on longer bikes, like tandems. Learning to brake with a front brake pulsing action (on, off, on, off, on, off; performed by the rider) is one way to learn good braking control for straight ahead level road stops. Most experienced riders can use a more steady-on front brake technique using a front brake lever pressure squeeze and pressure reduction in longer pulses with micro pressure differences. The rider intuitively eases up slightly on the front brake just before lockup - this only comes from experience. Turns, descents, wet roads and dirt roads require different techniques, all of which are easier to manage if one is already cycling slower before one enters into a turn and/or deceleration event. The subject is beyond our scope here.
*** Bicycle Touring Brake Technique: *** On loaded bicycle tours, when braking for long dry straight paved road descents, it is better to brake hard and then coast back up to speed than it is to apply a long and steady applied braking technique [per many biking articles and blogs on this subject, the latest touring article is from Jan Heine called 'Mechanical Advantage' in the March, 2011 issue of Adventure Cycling, V39, #2, p54]. Brake using more force on the front brake than on the rear [something akin to a 70/30 ratio]. Another reason to use your front brakes more is that the front brakes typically have nothing to block the air flow. Rear brakes; however have a rider, frame, and pannier interfering with air flow, which in turn, may prevent the rear brake from cooling as efficiently as the front brake. ALSO, if a cyclist can only afford one good cooling brake rotor then put it in on the rear wheel. On long distance bike tours it is always wise to have identical parts that serve the same purpose - i.e., the same brake system and rotor, front and rear.

How to Brake Summary (Don't get paranoid, have fun, use your brakes):

Least enduring to the brake system: Steady On for a Long downhill run - this method seems to heat up the disk or rim the most. It also heats up the pads; hot pads are not as efficient as cool pads; it does not take long to cool a pad, pads start cooling as soon as they are not used.
Better: Pulse Braking (both), 1-2 seconds engaged, 1-2 seconds disengaged.
Better: Alternating use, front then rear, 1-2 seconds engaged, 1-2 seconds disengaged.
Best: Hard Braking (both), significant change in speed from fast to slow, then coast back to braking speed.

Warning - Brake Lever Position: In the USA, it is customary to position the Front Brake Lever on the left side of the handle bar; this lever position is an old established custom, like driving on the right side of the road. There are exceptions for people with physical challenges, both in position as well as side. In Europe, it is customary to position the Front Brake Lever on the right side of the handlebar. To the best of my knowledge, ALL Modern Motorcycles have Front Brake Lever on the right side of the handlebar. Bicycle Shops in other countries may or may not change the position of the front brake lever and they may leave the lever position as it arrived from the manufacturer OR the bike shop may leave the brake position as it was last setup by the last rider.

Issue/Warning: Once a rider is used to a Front Brake Lever being in one position (left or right side), then one's braking performance in emergency conditions may be negatively affected if the brake lever is positioned opposite.
Issue/Warning: A rider can and should state a preference when buying or renting a bicycle.
Issue/Warning: Outside of the USA, in the absence of a stated/desired brake lever position, upon a bike shop learning that the renter is American or coming from the USA, the shop may re-position the Front Brake Lever to be on the left side of the bicycle by just trying to be helpful. Be Aware of this possible action and be advised that it is always best to state one's preference.
Issue/Warning: A rider can and should physically change the setup if it is not to their preference (I do this on foreign rentals).
Issue/Warning: A rider should walk away from any arrangement that does not accommodate their bicycle brake usage, expectations, skills, and/or habits.
Issue/Warning: If a bicyclist comes from the motorcycle world, where they are used to a Front Brake Lever being on the right side of the handlebar, then they should strongly consider riding a bicycle with a similar setup (insuring that the Front Brake Lever is positioned on the right side of the handlebar).

Body Inertia (When braking): Solo riders usually have no problem controlling their forward momentum when braking because the same person that conducts the braking is the same person that has to body shift for deceleration. HOWEVER, on a tandem, this is a different issue: the Captain nearly always needs to warn the Stoker of an impending/known stop so that the Stoker may perform the necessary body position shift for a quick stop. It is highly possible that the Stoker May NOT be looking forward or that the Stoker my not have their hands on the handlebar when the Captain is about to Slam on the Brakes. Stokers will accept emergency stops without being informed, otherwise the Captain is going to hear or feel the Stoker's displeasure.

Fenders: It's not hard to convince long distance bicycle tour riders that fenders are a necessity. Using a fender is a shift in mindset from speed performance riding where a fender is just seen as extra weight. For those riders, remember that touring is about endurance and survivability. Cycling all day long in the rain is par norm for touring. Two or three days in a weather front is not an unusual occurrence in any fourteen-day time frame. Reducing the amount of dirt, grime, mud, and water from the roadway or dirt-path to the bicycle, its components, its rider, other bicyclists, and trailers and/or panniers, greatly enhances Tour Survivability, rider comfort, and attitude.

Touring Bicycle Caveats
(Tour Bike Selection, Facilitation, or Shipping):

How to Choose a Touring Bike - TOC

Note that security is always an issue. Pretty things attract people (especially kids) and ugly things repel people. There are decals for sell on the Internet that make bikes look old, dented, dirty, scratched, and un-desirable. Some people put on address labels and then strip them off, leaving that ugly white gummy look of an old sticker (rub some dirt on it to make it non-sticky and more ugly). Some cyclists put short wraps of duct tape around tubes (like the stays or seat mast) to have available for emergency use, but it also can serve to ugly up a bike.
Typically, security is a big city issue and not a rural, village, or remote outpost issue.
See the Bicycle Packing and Shipping Checklist for bike shipping and transportation issues.
Most good touring bike designs are very general looking.
As a Rule-of-Thumb, it really helps to Keep Add-On Components Simple to un-mount for shipping, remount for tour use, and easily operate when needed. Give consideration to the mount and un-mount issues, usage, and shipping aspects when buying components or accessories.
There are third party post and/or mount extensions available for adding devices to an already crowded or small handlebar or short stem/mast; available online or through your favorite bike shop.
It also Helps with component replacement and repair when pieces are common and available worldwide (versus at the bleeding edge of technology where only a FedX shipment in a big city hundreds of miles away will resolve a missing, stolen, or broken component issue).
The Pretty Things of new technology have a habit of disappearing too easily (some new technology bikes don't make it past the shipper).
Further (and perhaps more detailed) reading about Tour Bike Selection Issues may be found online at Choosing a Touring Bike for the Road (http://www.adventurecycling.org/features/bikefortheroad.cfm), written by Larry Diskin (current or updated in 2011).
See also, How to Choose a Touring Bicycle, written by Hal Amen, December 6, 2008 (still current), found at http://matadornetwork.com/notebook/how-to-choose-a-touring-bicycle/ .
Cyclist in Trouble:
1. Having dealt with the issue of needing to know the foreign word for word 'Air' a few times (hint, hint), more people understand the word 'Atmosphere' than the word 'Air' (in all Latin based languages).
2. I have never had trouble pantomiming the up-down motion of operating a floor stand air pump to convey the fact that I need an Air Pump (I am usually directed to a Petro Station or a Tire Store, either of which is very satisfying).
3. There is no place in the world (outside of big cities, heard of by me) where people will not stop to help a touring cyclist that is in trouble - it is an amazing statement about the human character.

"Be at one with the universe. If you can't do that, at least be one with the bike." - Lennard Zinn

Road Rules, Road Smarts, Road Survival and
Positive Bicycling Actions:

Top, Cultural Issues

ALWAYS Ride Bicycles With the Traffic, generally to the outside-edge of the outer-most road lane;
NEVER Ride Bicycles Against the Traffic:
- ALL VEHICLES drive in the in the designated vehicle direction of the lane.
- Bicycles are non-motorized vehicles (BUT Bicycles are Vehicles).
- Pedestrian rules and customs do NOT apply to Vehicles:
1. First of all, these are the laws in about 99% of the world countries. The laws are thought to be so common sense oriented that they are NOT posted on roadways.
2. Second, cycling against traffic dramatically cuts down reaction time of the, now, oncoming vehicles, whereas cycling with the traffic increases the reaction time of oncoming vehicles.
3. Third the likelihood of a cyclist (pedaling into traffic) being in an accident or causing an accident is increased above the statistical norm.
Caveats:
- People who (incorrectly) think about riding a bicycle against the traffic are thinking that Walkers are encouraged and instructed to walk facing oncoming traffic. The notion of "Walking against Traffic" is advantageous for both the walker and a motor vehicle operator but it is mainly to help the walker. Walking towards traffic helps a walker to see traffic. It partially forces a walker to look at traffic. Whether a walker is right or wrong, the walker will get injured and the vehicle will likely not be damaged. It is to everyone's interest to force walkers to look at traffic. Walking towards oncoming traffic facilitates the capability of a quicker reaction time for the walker to jump out the way of an unwanted situation (quicker than having one's back to oncoming traffic).
- Most of the advantage of "Walking towards Traffic" is for the Walker. All of that 'Facing the Traffic' advantage is lost for bicycles at cycling speeds. The oncoming vehicles have little to no reaction time and have virtually no place to dodge the cycle; and at the same time, the bicycle likely can't be jumped out of the way of an oncoming vehicle. This is especially important where [I have seen this happen] maybe the front motor vehicle can see a rouge cyclist coming at the driver and a second motor vehicle cannot see the cyclist and the second driver may swerve into the next lane to pass or avoid the front most slowing vehicle, thus taking up all roadway space, thus further endangering the cyclist (by removing all exit options except the side ditch or fence).
NEVER Ride Bicycles Against the Traffic.

Do remove road/trail debris that can damage bicycles. See a screw, bolt, or nail on the road; remove it. Yes, it seems that in some cases one could spend all day cleaning up debris, but do make the roadway a little better and safer than you found it. Sometimes the foreign object is too big or long to carry as trash; in that case it is probably better to just move it off to the side of the roadway.

Road Karma: I can't explain this, but on long tours, there have been many a time that someone has stated that they need x object and later, in time, someone would find x object along the way.
Blocking doorways, entryways, workways, pathways, walkways, roadways, or bike ways by standing or bicycle parking is very déclassé. It is Bad Karma to negatively interfere with the actions or attempted actions of other people. Blocking cycle paths is easy to unintentionally do when the leader/map reader is stopping in order to orient one's self for a map reading or for route directions and other bikers queue up behind the leader; it is wise to get off to the side and not block traffic (bike, pedestrian, or motor). When parking for personal matters, get completely off the travel way. Get far enough off the road, that if you were to fall (or drop something), you (or it) still would not be on the travel way.
Offer appreciation to someone when you see people do good.
Taking food into restaurants is very rude and gives other cyclists, unfairly, a bad rap [Adventure Cycling issue too].
Be courteous of the needs of other people and cyclists around you.
Parking or leaning bicycles against glass windows is very dangerous, at worse one can break or scratch a window, and at best it makes one look extremely inconsiderate. [Adventure Cycling issue too].
In Right-Side driving countries, ride cycles to the right side of the trail. Allow and facilitate other cyclists to pass your self/group. Provide a cheerful greeting or acknowledgment. If about to pass other cyclists or pedestrians, call out your intention (with enough time for the other party to react): "On your Left", "On your Right", "Behind You", ... . Provide a cheerful greeting as you pass people. [Left Side for Left driving countries - same same, flip sides.]

Mind the mirror (and have a mirror).
Always assertively announce one's self as one comes up behind someone on the trail - Be extra loud for Senior Citizens.
Wearing ear plugs for music systems while cycling is not only dangerous to the wearer but to others around the wearer, especially to other passing cyclists or vehicles and to escalating situations. By-the-way, most tour operators will specifically NOT allow the wearing of ear plugs (for music listening) while cycling - it is grounds for terminating tour participation.
There is a relatively new courtesy that we've seen on mountain dirt roads and paths. The lead biker or the lead of a tight group of bicycles will announce by voice and/or count of fingers how many people are in the group. "Two more bikes", "Six more bikes behind me", and/or hold up fingers for the same count, three bikes, three fingers. This good behavior comes from the ATV, Motocross, and Snowmobile worlds - Thanks.
COURTESY SIGNALING AUTO TRAFFIC: Signaling Traffic is not for rookies nor the faint of heart, there is a lot of faith in mankind and experience involved. See the Cyclist Communication Signals Section for Cyclist to Cyclist Communication (it's different).
The Situation is that a Lead cyclist or Solo cyclist will very often find themselves near or at the top of a hill where they can clearly see over the hill but no vehicle driver behind them can see over the hill or a lead bike can see clearly around a bend when those behind can't see clearly. Motorized vehicles will have slowed to the bikers speed for safety but they are anxious to get by the bikers. If conditions are right, the traffic can be signaled to pass or not pass - It is a much appreciated courtesy.

If it is unquestionably clear over the hill or around the bend, I wave back to the traffic with the "OK to pass wave" which is much like the military's "move forward" signal (open palm at rear hip or side, high arc extended swing of arm and palm moving forward to front of body, palm always facing forward except for the initial reach back). Some people won't pass no matter what, that's OK. Most will creep by and give a wave or short beep of thanks.
If it is Not clear, I give a "Do NOT Pass" signal which is arm straight out to the side, open hand, palm facing rearward, fingers splayed. I have Never had anyone pass once I gave the Do NOT Pass signal. I have saved some lives, perhaps my own.
If it is a judgment call, Do NOT get involved, leave the decisions up to the vehicle drivers.

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Electronics and Communication

Top, Bicycle Tour Planning Graphic,
- Table of Contents -

Electronics and Communication: Electricity Issues Around the World,
Battery Charging Options: Electricity Locations, Self Generated, Storage Device(s), Solar Energy, Commercial Charge Port, Extra Battery
Devices: Travel Computers, Cell Phones, Smartphones, GPS, Satellite Telephones, Cameras

Overview:

explosion in electronics communication

global sharing of information

(like the sharing of the contents of this website)

The GOOD NEWS: Data Processing and Data Storage - Most Smartphones are capable of processing and handling more information than was processed on the biggest IBM mainframes of just 20 years ago.
The BAD NEWS: Data Security and Identity Theft - So much private and financial information is carried on Smartphones, that the loss of such a phone (lost, stolen, or broken) can nearly stop the planned activities of the owner for a time frame from 2 weeks to 2 months.

Our youngest generation of cyclists have ALWAYS HAD A SMARTPHONE.
Smartphones are Peripheral Memory Devices to their owners.

The Energy Question:

It takes Electricity to keep Electronic tools running

How does a Touring Cyclist keep the Batteries Charged?

Energy Management is a Big Deal.

Electricity Around the World:

Electronics and Communication: Electricity Around the World, Battery Charging Options,
Travel Computers, Cell Phones, Smartphones, GPS, Satellite Telephones, Cameras

There is NO universal world wide standard for Electrical Power (Voltage), Frequency (Hertz), or Outlet. See the Global Electric Directory <--- Tells the VOLTAGE by Country, Frequency (HERTZ), and Outlet Type.

Caution: There are two (2) Kinds of 'Adapters' discussed within this Electronics Topic;
Please Do NOT Mix up these two items/functions:

AC/DC Charge Adapter (converts AC electricity to DC electricity for a Specific Electronic Device).
Electrical Outlet Adapter (converts the wall's outlet type to a specific electrical plug type).

In many cases the Cyclist will need to use both at the same time but they are two different things/concepts.

Any single country can have any electrical standard, but typically a block of countries will have the same Power, Frequency, and Outlet Types.
KNOW which outlets serve the areas of your Bicycle Tour (including Airport, Train, Bus, and Ship Terminals). There are about a dozen different Types of Electrical Outlets (two prongs, three prongs, L prong(s), Round prong(s), Flat Prong(s), Parallel, Perpendicular, Inline, Grounded, ...).
In just a few cases, it is possible to catch a country in transition from old to new outlet types, thus maybe 2 outlet adaptors may be needed for one country. It is usually the older B&B or Hostel type dwellings which may not be up to the new code.

Adjust each appliance or device to the correct Power (Voltage) and Frequency (Hertz), usually by use of toggle switches on the object.
Hertz cycles per second will have little effect on the operation of a hair dryer but it will effect anything that is timer, time, or clock based (like a clock, alarm clock, incandescent light bulb, computer, Smartphone, ...). If there is a Hertz/Frequency toggle, then set it as is appropriate.
Most computer and phone AC/DC Adapters/Chargers will Automatically adjust for Voltage and Frequency through the Adapter, but always be sure. It is usually printed on the Adapter's backside, get help if in question.
Use the correct electrical outlet adapter.
Carry/Use 3-4 electrical outlet adapters, so that multiple things may operate or charge at the same time.
Remember to recover the electrical outlet adapter after unplugging the unit (electrical outlet adapters have a habit of sticking in the plug). Experience: This can be more problematic for couples/teams where one person plugs the unit into the electrical outlet with an adapter and another person removes the plugged-in device.

Battery Charging Options:

Electronics and Communication: Electricity Around the World, Battery Charging Options,
Travel Computers, Cell Phones, Smartphones, GPS, Satellite Telephones, Cameras

Battery Charging Options
- Table of Contents -

A - Access Hotel, Hostel or Campground Electricity
B - Dynamo and Low Voltage Storage/Capacitor/Charger
C - Energy Storage Cell (like Power Monkey brand)
D - Portable Solar Energy Converter Panels
E - Commercial Charging Port/Station
F - Spare Batteries (One-Time or Reusable)

Access Hotel, Hostel or Campground Electricity

One of the problems with staying at a campground and not paying for an electrical outlet is that the cyclist (you) may be forced to share 1 or 2 outlets with 20 other campers and cyclists.
Hotel/Motel/Hostels cost a little more, but the benefit is that the individual usually gets private access to electricity and usually some degree of device security as well as personal security.
One of the benefits to staying at a Hotel/Motel/Hostel is that one generally gets a warm shower and often a Simple/Continental Breakfast.
Caution: Sometimes, the cyclist just has to watch their stuff (literally sit right next to it) or it may disappear.

Stay at a Hotel/Motel/Hostel type room that has one or more electrical outlets and run the chargers from the very start until done. Usually a cyclist needs to charge more than one thing at one time (i.e., phone(s), camera(s), shaver, computer(s), GPS, ...).

Caution: Always make sure that there actually is electrical power coming from the outlet - Usually one's charging unit has an LED light to indicate that there is power. Sometimes the cyclist needs to check the device that is being charged (for any indication that it is in fact being charged). Validate that the system is not discharging.
Caution: Many places of stay have Two (2) Electrical Switches (especially outside of the USA). The Room's Master Switch may be near the entryway and then a Second Outlet Switch may be on/at the Wall Outlet itself. Validate by the electronic device actually being charged that the electrical system is operating in full circuit.
Caution: Some Hotel rooms have an ecological/green 'I am Home Key Card' and if the Key Card is not placed into its 'I'm Home' slot (usually by the door) then the electrical outlets to the room will not flow electricity. In other words, the electronic gear will not only NOT BE CHARGING, in cases when the unit is powered-on it WILL BE DISCHARGING.

Lesson (Learned in China): A thin piece of cardboard or a piece of paper folded a over twice (4 sheets thick) inserted into the 'I am Home Slot' will activate a micro-switch trigger inside the device; so far one does not actually need a special card (but something must be inserted to turn-on access room electrical power).

Caution: Carry 3-4 electrical outlet adapters (for the regions visited) or the Cyclist will be limiting how many devices may recharged at the same time.
Caution: Older Hotel/Motel/Hostel Bathrooms/Toilet-Rooms used to have a Special Low Voltage Outlet (Labeled 'For Charging Razors Only' or words to that effect) that are NOT full juice outlets. Those electrical outlets may charge a Computer or Camera in One Week - Generally, a cyclist is better off to look for and use another outlet.

More and more Touring Cyclists are deliberately staying at a Motel/Hotel/Hostel or Campground every 2-3 days for one or more of the following reasons:

To Fully Charge all Devices with batteries.
To take a Warm Shower/Bath.
To Do Laundry.
To catch-up on electronic/cyber correspondence and/or travel log postings.
To Perform Electronic Synchronizing/Balancing/Back-Up/Copy Work.
To set-up/confirm the next Travel-Leg series of reservations for the Tour.
To perform one or more tasks in town that probably cannot be done on the road (multitask between a couple or small group, visit a bike shop, grocery shop, perform some maintenance or preventive maintenance, and/or buy other touring supplies).
To take their weekly touring break and just perform most of these listed tasks.

If needed, unplug the TV and/or lamp(s) to get to those hidden electrical outlets. Remember to plug those devices back in when the charging is complete.
Remember to recover your outlet/plug converter.
Sometimes one is forced to use the one and only electrical outlet. It Happens. There have been times when a cyclist has to get up in the middle of the night to unplug one (charged up) device and re-plug another device to be charged.
There are times when not everything will get fully charged. In those instances, the Cyclist needs to decide which is more important. Be aware that what is most important one time may not be what is most important another time.
There was an Internet Article that mentioned that Tim and Cindie Travis of downtheroad.org (fellow Cyclists) carried an Old Fashioned Electrical Light-Socket converter for a Light Bulb, such that they could unscrew the only electrical Light fixture in an African Hut, plug in their own electrical outlet adapter which had a light-socket with a pull-chain switch, electrical outlet, and then they could charge their devices and keep the light operating, On or Off, as desired.
Most AC/DC Device Adapters automatically operate on 100-240 AC and 50-60 Hz electrical lines/outlets, otherwise make sure that the correct toggles are selected for the correct current.
Most of the things that cyclists need to charge up with electricity do not use a lot of electricity. It is NOT like running a blender, microwave, and coffee maker at the same time. It is VERY WISE to carry a 'Three-way Outlet Device' for a single plug, in this manner the Cyclist(s) may actually Charge Multiple things at the same time. It may be worth investing in such for Foreign Outlets as well. This allows multiple usage of outlets by multiple people, at airports and other waiting areas as well (like if you arrive and someone has plugged into the only single outlet already, then you can plug in your three-way and share the outlet with the original user).
Mark/ID All of your AC/DC Electrical Adapters for the following Reasons:

Your Name/ID, (Yes for theft purposes) but far more likely to make sure your Adapter/Stuff does not get mixed up with someone else's Adapter/Stuff. A lot of people travel with the same gear or gear that looks close enough to the same. Avoid a situation where you may be quickly separated forever from your proper/matching gear/adapters - It will probably render what you have as useless for the remainder of your tour.

Device Name/ID, over time a person will have different models and types of similar looking gear and after a while all of the AC/DC Charge Adapters start to look the same. Rather than allowing yourself to be confused about what adapter goes with what device, it can be quickly figured if the adapter is Device Name Marked so that you (or any helper) can quickly figure what belongs to what, what to bring on tour, and what not to bring on tour.

Put a rubber band or Velcro self stick band on the AC/DC Adapter or wire in order to wrap-up the cord/wire/cable (to keep it organized and from bundling with other loose cord/wire/cable).
See Rubber Band (not used) on AC/DC Adapter, above right.
Batteries

Keep/store in waterproof zipper lock plastic baggie or dedicated battery plastic holder box.
Invent a way to tell charged batteries from those that need a charge.
Avoid loose batteries as they can discharge one another.
Store with Ends Protected or Covered by Non Conducting Tape
Some Cyclists deliberately store batteries in a handlebar light (or such) with the batteries opposed so that they cannot be accidently discharged or the light turned on by mistake. If you do this, be sure to test your batteries before a trek.
Older AA, AAA, C,& D Battery Chargers that are 110/115v cannot be used on 230/240v systems AND older AA, AAA, C,& D Battery Chargers that are 230/240v cannot be used on 110/115v systems. Some, not all, of the newer AA, AAA, C,& D Battery Chargers can work on multi-voltage or hertz.
WARNING: Some battery chargers are '15 Minute Quick Chargers' for ONLY Ni-MH quick charge batteries and the use of the wrong battery can burn out the system and cause a fire.
WARNING: Ni-Cad is NOT the same thing as Ni-MH and they CANNOT be substituted - Dire explosive consequences.
Note: Ni-MH means Nickel-Metal Hydride (it is Hydrogen Based) and its properties are more like Lithium for Charge Power/Duration.
It is not unusual to carry two batteries for some devices (camera, phone, music unit or such).
Always take advantage of an opportunity to charge rechargeable batteries, especially cell phones, cameras, and computers.

Dynamo and Low Voltage Storage/Capacitor/Charger (with USB Port)

Front Hub Dynamos (Internal Hub Electricity Generators) were more or less invented to give power to some fairly bright/powerful bicycle headlights. It did not take long to realize that the Electrical Generator could be used for other purposes.
The next Dynamo improvement was to figure a way to store electricity; it was initially stored in a capacitive battery that was kept in the front water-bottle cage. This location was only OK and many people did not like giving up a water-bottle holder (to anything but a water bottle). Then it was realized that the hollow area of a handlebar's stem mount could work as an internal electrical storage unit whose location is very convenient as most of the electrical devices are (or can be) mounted to the handlebar. It was only a matter of time before one or more USB ports were added to the energy storage unit (at the Stem).
Caution: Some USB stem devices are only power transformers or converters, they may not be capable of storing electricity like a battery. See next note.
Sometimes a storage battery (at an additional cost) can be strapped to the frame (with a dynamo's electricity transfer wire running to it along the frame) such that the storage battery is charged during the day (no headlights being used) and then the charged battery can be used to re-charge a phone or camera (or such) in the evening. The headlights can be used at night (if needed). So far, this dynamo storage battery is only designed for re-charging USB chargeable devices (meaning that there is an International USB Electrical Standard).
To the best of my knowledge, anything that can use a USB port for charging will be at or less than 5 volts (DC); it is an electrical standards compliance.
Other devices, like digital cameras (both pocket and SLR), GPSs, and Palm/Notebook Computers, are starting to be made with USB charging ports.
There is also some degree of product simplification as many manufacturers are trying to standardize their battery types and sizes.
In a manner of speaking, the Stem mounted electrical storage unit is much like a Power Monkey (next item) that is permanently stored on the handlebar's stem.

Energy Storage Cell (like Power Monkey brand):

The Power Monkey is a sophisticated battery that can be charged up at an electrical outlet and then stored for later use. Its purpose is to re-charge an USB device (typically an I-pod, Pocket Camera, or Mobile Phone) in a remote area that has no electricity.
See Image - Power Monkey Battery/Energy Storage Unit along with Camera Fittings (top left), Electrical Outlet fittings (right side), and AC/DC Adapter (bottom left).
Usage of a Power Monkey means having to carry its AC/DC Charging Adapter and wiring gear for plugging into an electrical outlet and also carrying the appropriate USB charge cable for one or more devices (often using the same type of cable but sometimes a cable can be quite specialized - Sony is good at forcing people to buy proprietary cables in a world that already has common standards).
Caution: The Egg Shaped Power Monkey has an On/Off Switch which has been known to accidently Flick-On while in storage on a bicycle and discharge the unit.
So far, by my experience, the time that it takes to re-charge a device with a Power Monkey is the same amount of time that it takes for an electrical outlet charge, it is still a slow process.
Power Monkeys, for the most part, can only be re-charged at an electrical outlet.
Cyclists on tour, often change/adjust their routine every 2 or 3 days, in order to be at locations that have electrical outlets.

Portable Solar Energy Converter Panels

There are a few commercial Solar Panel units on the market for Charging Cell Phones and similar devices. There are, basically two types of Solar Charging Systems, those that are the size of a wallet (they are jokes) and those that fold or roll which when packed are the size of a notebook and opened up have the surface area of 4-5 notebooks (they work, they are not cost efficient, but they can do the job).
These units are by NO means state-of-the-art. Older models seem to charge in the 4 watt/hr range/rate and at best it may be called a Trickle Charger, However, most of the new models can charge most Smartphones in a day given no use, good sunlight, and time spent aligning the array for the best sun angles.
One must pay attention to the angle of the face of the Solar Panels to the sun. If the panel angle is not perpendicular to the sun or where the sun is behind clouds then the charge conversion rate diminishes dramatically.

Working with Solar Panels, Cords and Chargers. This Device and Electrical Charging Layout Image is from fellow traveler Patrick Hendry's http://worldsbetweenlines.com Website (by permission).
It will not be anytime soon that the cost of the portable camping Solar Panels will justify the cost of the unit of electricity. It simply comes down to whether the Cyclist wants remote off-the-grid charging or not.
In most bicycle touring situations, the Cyclist is not going to be in camp long enough for a full charge and at best the user is only going to get a partial re-charge.
To get a full charge the cyclist may need to spend a full day at camp (under full sun).
A cyclist who is moving daily will probably still need to be re-charging the battery at an electrical outlet every 2 or 3 days.
In order to get a full charge from a Solar Panel, the user may have to forgo usage of the device a few days.
The most efficient solar charging 'Time-of-the-Day' is when the sun is highest in the sky, usually in the 1000 to 1400 hrs time frame. Most people are NOT in camp during this time frame. Charging can become one's lunchtime activity (while eating, sleeping, or doing something else). The solar panels must be perpendicular to the sun and this also requires adjusting about once an hour. So, once again, the cyclist may be adjusting his or her schedule to fit around Cell Phone and smart Phone charging needs.

Commercial Charging Port/Station:

Some airplane terminals, cafés, hostels, and campgrounds are starting to carry commercial charging ports (a little array kiosk) where for a few coins (?) one can plug-in and charge a device or two. This usually means that the user needs to hang around and keep an eye on their devices.

Spare Batteries (One-Time or Reusable):

In most cases, such as the battery charging state of the art is today. A cyclist may be better off using one or more spare batteries and charging all of the batteries every 2 or 3 days (versus putting all the trickle charge and re-charge EFFORT-TIME into power management).
There is still a strong case for standardizing batteries and charging units.
The AA and AAA batteries, including the rechargeable and fast re-charge types, are still the most common batteries in the world and are commonly available world-wide.
There is a lot of merit for making and owning equipment that runs on AA and AAA batteries (and for making better AA and AAA batteries).
Some of the newer Ni-MH quick charge batteries seem to have a charge that is lasting as long as basic issue one-time use batteries.

Electronic Devices

Travel Computers:

Electronics and Communication: Electricity Around the World, Battery Charging Options,
Travel Computers, Cell Phones, Smartphones, GPS, Satellite Telephones, Cameras

Smartphones

The Notebook Computer and the Cell Phone are still an awesome bike touring combination.
More and more Cyclists are using Smartphones but the Cell Phone and Notebook Computer combination still serve the cyclist's needs quite well.
Wireless is a must.
Most cyclist still carry some Cat V [Internet Connecting] cable or as appropriate. It is usually more secure and it does not have dead zones, like one side of a bed only for wireless reception. See Image.
Carry the electrical outlet adapters, AC/DC adapters and any cables in a waterproof plastic bag. Also include the other adapters and cables (phone, camera(s), ...). By the way, carry 3 to 4 of those electrical outlet adapters or you will be limiting how many things that you may recharge at the same time. See Image.
If the cyclist has music or movies on their notebook computer (or smart phone), then remember to bring/carry ear phones and maybe a 'Y' connector. We often carry 1 or 2 DVD movies for waiting situations, like for airplanes, airports, or rainy days; sometimes the DVDs never get viewed.
Internet Security, Malware and Virus protection is a must; get a security package that has it all.
Save online or hard copies of booking transactions.
Have a way of 'On-and-Off Loading Data' from a hard source, like from a CD or FlashDrive (not counting the ability to up and download material).
Personal and Travel Records: With the advent of Digital Data Storage capabilities, more and more cyclists are uploading copies of their: Itinerary, Medical Data, Bicycle Owner's &/or Repair Manual (Bicycle, Trailer, GPS, Phone, Stove(s), Bike Computer, Notebook/Pad, Watch, and other system info); Reservations, Places to Stay, Flight Info, Shipping, Insurance; Photo Image/Copy (Passport, Health Records, Any/other Hardcopy documentation, Maps ([travel, tour, city, transport, schedules]); Bike Touring Checklist; Bike Shipping Checklist, Music/Entertainment, Emergency Home/Family/Business/Medical Contact Info); and Travel Related Links/Favorites. All of this information is to be secured with a Password.
On the tour ride itself, store the Computer in a waterproof container (the sealable clear waterproof document holders work nicely), often wrapped in clothing. We wrap the Notebook in dirty or clean clothes, depending on which ever provides the most padding for travel.
Sometimes a person can print hardcopy in a business office or library, sometimes there is a token paper fee, and sometimes I refuse to pay their stupid fees like at most resorts. Often a copy to a flash drive and using a Cyber Café, Campground, or Public Library will be free. You will develop a nose for this over time; it never hurts to ask other travelers.
Most computer AC/DC adapters will operate on 100-240 AC and 50-60 Hz electrical outlets. On other devices, make sure that the correct toggles are selected for the correct current.
Do NOT try to charge a computer in an outlet that says 'For Electric Razors ONLY'. Read all of the battery charging notes at Battery Charging.
Consider avoiding a mouse or other such device (instead, use a computer with a finger/touch pad, granted that some people do have other preferences). Bring all of the peripheral equipment that you may need/desire to operate the computer. Also consider a three-way outlet, so as to share one electrical outlet at an Airport, Bus, or Train Terminal.
Consider carrying a Netflix DVD. It tends to get viewed on at Airports or such (not during bike tours), will also need Earphones and a 'Y' adapter.

Cell Phones:

Electronics and Communication: Electricity Around the World, Battery Charging Options,
Travel Computers, Cell Phones, Smartphones, GPS, Satellite Telephones, Cameras

In order to conserve power, Remember that there are many stretches of time when there is NO Real Need to have the Cell Phone turned On.
Cell Phones are good for emergency calls
Cell Phones are good for handling verbal affairs while on the go (away from home).
Cell Phones are good for handling reservations and call ahead issues (that maybe a computer cannot do).
The Cell Phone and Notebook Computer are still an awesome traveling team.
Cell Phone Plans while in a different country can be problematic:
1. The first issue is that the home plan may not cover a visited area or if the area is covered, the pricing plan may be horrendous.
2. Some Competitive Cell/Smart Phone Companies sell their own International Calling Chip so that the cyclist/customer may bypass his/her own telephone service company and use another service provider overseas.
3. Note that most cell phones come with a custom lock that prevents another chip from being used.
4. The Lock can be undone (simple Internet search) with a series of numbers that have to be entered just right in order to open the phone for another company's chip.
5. Unlocking a Cell/Smart Phone is not difficult to do, it is just time consuming.
See the Battery Charging Issues above.
Security:

Everyone Needs a Stolen Phone Emergency Plan: On paper should be listed the Carrier's Emergency Lost Phone Telephone Number, you phone number and any special codes, credit card company phone numbers and card numbers. Many other issues and notifications probably apply.
There is some security software for the Cell/Smart Phone. One such application, once installed, will allow the owner to call a monitoring agency and permanently shutdown the Cell/Smart Phone once a phone call is attempted.
Put your ID on the physical Phone Unit Itself: Many people use an ID vibration marker, some people carve with a sharp pointed object.
Place you Name and contact Method as the owner inside the phone's software.
Some people list their Business, Travel Agent, or Parent for a I'm Lost contact.
Use/set/turn-on ID and PWD for travel.
List your Travel Phone Number on you itinerary and place one in each Luggage, so that lost items can find you.

NO Reception: There are many places that people conduct Bicycle Tours that do NOT have Cell Towers or Cell Reception - Just having a cell phone does not guarantee that a person can communicate by phone.
Keep the phone handy (except in rain), some people carry in their back jersey pocket, some in the handlebar bag, some in the seat post bag, and some in a cargo pant pocket. In foul weather store the phone in a clear waterproof document bag or in a plastic zipper bag.
In really humid weather, if the Cell/Smart Phone is not waterproof (most are not) carrying the phone in a pocket on your person can cause the phone to become supersaturated with moisture and it will either quit working or misbehave - In these circumstances it is best to store in a waterproof plastic zipper bag or document bag.
Carry the phone's paraphernalia in a gallon Sized Plastic Waterproof bag along with all Batteries, (Phone, Cameras, Light(s), ...), Shaver Cord, Electrical Plugs, Power Converters (120/220), Computer Cords, Multiple USB-Camera Cords, and All Electrical adapters (usually stored in a pannier). MARK all AC/DC Charge Adapters for their Correct/Matching Device.
Always know how to make a telephone call, by actual practice, back to the home country from another country and how to make a call in that country (or countries). If this requires a card code, code numbers, and/or correct coins then be suitably prepared. Practice in a place such that if something goes wrong or does not work correctly a person can remedy the situation. The act of practice is a wise investment and the call will usually make someone's day.
Most Cell Phones have an STANDBY OFF Position that is really just a standby or sleep mode but the system is still on and the system is still using electricity, and then there is a REALLY OFF / POWER OFF position - Be sure to know the difference.

Smartphones:

Electronics and Communication: Electricity Around the World, Battery Charging Options,
Travel Computers, Cell Phones, Smartphones, GPS, Satellite Telephones, Cameras

In order to conserve power, Remember that there are many stretches of time when there is NO Real Need to have the Cell Phone turned On.
Some Smartphones have GPS (Global Positioning System) features (or options). So far, most people, not all people, in the cycle touring world feel that they put more effort put into managing a GPS System than is returned in benefit.
All Smartphones can add Applications (called Aps) that, for instance, could tell you the location of the nearest coffee shop, grocery store, bike shop, campground, or hotel (lodging) while traveling on your Bicycle Tour.
Smartphones are rapidly becoming the standard tool of Cycling Tours for internal and external communication.
Internet Security, Malware and Virus protection is a must; get a security package that has it all.
Smartphones, typically, use more power than any other communication device. See the Battery Charging Issues above.
Most Smartphones have Peripheral Support Items that a person can buy to help manage the Operation of the Smartphone, most notably is a Soft Keyboard for computer mode operations and some Sophisticated Lenses for the built in camera.
Smartphone Plans while in a different country can be problematic:
1. The first issue is that the home plan may not cover a visited area or if the area is covered, the pricing plan may be horrendous.
2. Some Competitive Cell/Smart Phone Companies sell their own International Calling Chip so that the cyclist/customer may bypass his/her own telephone service company and use another service provider overseas.
3. Note that most Smartphones come with a custom lock that prevents another chip from being used (especially in the USA).
4. The Lock can be undone (simple Internet search) with a series of numbers that have to be entered just right in order to open the phone for another company's chip.
5. Unlocking a Cell/Smart Phone is not difficult to do, it is just time consuming.
Security:

Everyone Needs a Stolen Phone Emergency Plan: On paper should be listed the Carrier's Emergency Lost Phone Telephone Number, your phone number and any special codes, credit card company phone numbers and NOT the card numbers. Many other issues and notifications will apply.
There is some security software for the Cell/Smart Phone. One such application, once installed, will allow the owner to call a monitoring agency and permanently shutdown the Cell/Smart Phone once a cell tower link-up is attempted.
Put your ID on the physical Phone Unit Itself: Many people use an ID vibration marker, some people carve with a sharp pointed object.
Place you Name and contact Method as the owner inside the phone's software.
Some people list their Business, Travel Agent, or Parent for a I'm Lost contact.
Use/set/turn-on ID and PWD for travel.
List your Travel Phone Number on you itinerary and place one in each Luggage, so that lost items can find you.

NO Reception: There are many places that people conduct Bicycle Tours that do NOT have Cell Towers or Cell Reception - Just having a cell phone does not guarantee that a person can communicate by phone.
Keep the phone handy (except in rain), some people carry in their back jersey pocket, some in the handlebar bag, some in the seat post bag, and some in a cargo pant pocket. In foul weather store the phone in a clear waterproof document bag or in a plastic zipper bag.
In really humid weather, if the Cell/Smart Phone is not waterproof (most are not) carrying the phone in a pocket on your person can cause the phone to become supersaturated with moisture and it will either quit working or misbehave - In these circumstances it is best to store in a waterproof plastic zipper bag or document bag.
Carry the phone's paraphernalia in a gallon Sized Plastic/Waterproof bag along with of Batteries, (Phone, Cameras, Light(s), ...), Shaver Cord, Electrical Plugs, Power Converters (120/220), Computer Cords, Multiple USB-Camera Cords, and All Electrical adapters (usually stored in a pannier).
Personal and Travel Records: With the advent of the Smartphone and its Data Storage capabilities, more and more cyclists are uploading copies of their: Itinerary, Medical Data, Bicycle Owner's &/or Repair Manual (Bicycle, Trailer, GPS, Phone, Stove(s), Bike Computer, Notebook/Pad, Watch, and other system info); Reservations, Places to Stay, Flight Info, Shipping, Insurance; Photo Image/Copy (Passport, Health Records, Any/other Hardcopy documentation, Maps ([travel, tour, city, transport, schedules]); Bike Touring Checklist; Bike Shipping Checklist, Music/Entertainment, Emergency Home/Family/Business/Medical Contact Info); and Travel Related Links/Favorites. All of this information is to be secured with a Password.
Some people store this same (just listed) information on a private Internet Page.
There are Language Translation Applications and a few are voice operable.
Always know how to make a telephone call, by actual practice, back to the home country from another country and how to make a call in that country (or countries). If this requires a card code, code numbers, and/or correct coins then be suitably prepared. Practice in a place such that if something goes wrong or does not work correctly a person can remedy the situation. The act of practice is a wise investment and the call will usually make someone's day.
Most Cell/Smart Phones have an STANDBY OFF Position that is really just a standby or sleep mode but the system is still on and the system is still using electricity, and then there is a REALLY OFF / POWER OFF position - Be sure to know the difference.
See Device Mounting for Smartphone Mounting Issues.

GPS - Global Positioning System:

Electronics and Communication: Electricity Around the World, Battery Charging Options,
Travel Computers, Cell Phones, Smartphones, GPS, Satellite Telephones, Cameras

notorious battery/energy hogs

If the GPS unit is used just at key times, then they can be turned off (full off) until needed.
There are different sized units with different displays, all of which use energy at different rates.
There are some Bike/Trail GPS units but many trails are not mapped yet (digitized for GPS read/display).
Many individual cyclists, clubs, and organizations like Adventure Cycling are building libraries of GPS trails/routes.
Sometimes navigating and getting a fix (3-4 satellites for triangulation) is problematic.
Dashing down a bike path is not, yet, quite as easy as motor vehicle GPS systems. There are on online mapping organizations like Ride With GPS that can upload or download GPX/TCX/FIT/KML Files for sharing or personal use.
Most GPS system will track your own movements and these raw data files can be edited (with the appropriate software), for example to remove your side trip to visit the gas station (or a wrong turn).
See Device Mounting for GPS Mounting Issues.

Satellite Telephones:

Electronics and Communication: Electricity Around the World, Battery Charging Options,
Travel Computers, Cell Phones, Smartphones, GPS, Satellite Telephones, Cameras

will work as long as there is a direct line of site between the Cyclist/User and the Satellite

One advantage of Satellite Phones is that in an International Crisis when cell towers are destroyed by Nature or by a Political Machine, Satellite calls can still be made.
One disadvantage is that a person may get some signal interference sometimes from stormy weather, like from wind storms, sand storms, snow storms, and electrical storms.
Unit costs are about 800 USD and up, and monthly costs are about 30-40 USD/month PLUS usage fees (which vary from voice to data usage and vary in the per minute expenses - These are 2012 prices).
There is now Smartphone looking version from AT&T (as opposed to the old brick looking phone).
Finances aside, a Satellite Telephone is often a Good Group Investment, especially for remote tours and Satellite Phones can be rented.

Cameras:

Electronics and Communication: Electricity Around the World, Battery Charging Options,
Travel Computers, Cell Phones, Smartphones, GPS, Satellite Telephones, Cameras

Taking pictures and movies with cameras is how we record 'Memories'. Most of the world has gone digital for camera usage but there are a few 35mm SLR Film Cameras and a few Single Plate [Film] Cameras still being used (mostly for commercial use or by some hobbyists). For the most part, digital cameras have taken over the photograph market and two types of digital cameras have emerged for typical use especially for Bicycle Touring:

The 'Point and Shoot' Digital Pocket Camera.
The Digital Single Lens Reflex (D-SLR) Camera (or similar looking camera).

Caution: Bring at least two cameras on tour, even if one is a cheap digital pocket camera. If one camera breaks, then there is a backup camera and for the most part there will be NO Loss of Memory Capturing.
Twice, Dennis has broken the only camera in mid-tour, once in Alaska and once in Italy, with no replacement available for a few days. "I wish I had those pictures!" We, now, carry two cameras or one camera and an inexpensive 3x optical digital camera as a backup. It helps when the memory card and batteries match but anything is better than nothing.
Caution: Twice now, even with the use of a checklist, Dennis has brought the WRONG camera download (USB or Firewire) cable on a tour; Ergo, pay attention to which up/down-load cables are needed for which camera. We now mark our cables (Oly, Sony, Can, ...) as a HINT to match the correct 'download' cable with the correct 'camera'. Discussing camera cables that have different interface fittings and they do not match one-another.
Caution: Take some good pictures of your bike (both with gear on it as well as clean) for theft purposes. Many people do not have pictures of their bike to turn over to police in case of theft. Particularly, take pictures of thing that make you bike unique. Store images in your computer, camera, phone, and have them available online at a 'back home' web page). See Theft Prevention.
Caution: DEET will melt or dissolve camera body components (dials, buttons, switches, flash covers, ...) and/or marking on the camera (on the body, dials, buttons, ...).

Theft Safety: Identification & Telephone # on the camera.
Battery: Portable Solar Panels are being used more frequently for re-charging camera batteries (and other devices - read the instructions carefully). See Battery Charging issues and Solar Panel issues.
Carry Batteries in battery containers or as a minimum in a clear waterproof plastic bag, tape the ends, wrap in tape or rubber bands (all + ends pointing in the same direction), no loose batteries (they tend to discharge).
Try to carry one tough pocket camera (drop proof, crush proof, waterproof, and freeze proof).
When Packing:, Remember Camera(s), Case(s), Charged Batteries & Spares, Correct Charger/Adapter (marked with Your ID and the Camera ID), Film or Appropriate Storage Media (memory card), Appropriate Lenses/filters, Appropriate Download Cable (labeled for camera X)
The AA battery is the most common battery in the world. This knowledge should be applied to head lights, flash lights (torches), position lights, tail lights, cameras, and phones.
Trend: Many travelers/cyclists are taking pictures of large/detailed travel maps and city transportation maps; and brochures (with address, telephone, and hours) so as to look at them on their camera/iphone in lieu of carrying all the material on them or in case of document loss or separation. Many travelers/cyclists are taking pictures of Manuals (computer, camera, watch, bicycle, packing, checklists, itinerary, flight/train/bus/ship schedules, reservation).
Trend: There seems to be a little movement toward cameras that have USB port charging capability. Some special standards/rules apply to USB Charging Standards. See USB-Dynamo Charging System.
Gorilla Pod (GorillaPod): A Gorilla Pod is flexible small tripod originally designed as a flexible, portable, packable camera tripod. It is quite handy. Many Cyclists enjoy the use of a long mono-pod. Dedicated Photographers carry a tripod, but most cyclists feel that tripods weigh too much and/or take up too much space.
Many riders are mounting video recorders on their helmet or bike to record good and bad things that happen on the road (note that many riders complain of helmet control and management issues regarding the extra length, height, weight, and leverage of cameras mounted on helmets)
Some video cameras, like the GoPro Video Camera, are designed to be mounted on the bicycle or on a cyclist's helmet. Mounting the camera system on the bike usually requires the user to give up some valuable bicycle surface estate - it has to be planned and may conflict with a Smartphone, GPS, or handlebar bag for space. It can be mounted to some front racks. Some riders with helmet mounts have noted that it takes a while to get used to a helmet mount and the camera adds movement momentum and clearance issues.
If a cyclist buys a camera mount, the issues will be the same as addressed by Smartphone or GPS mount.
Where does one carry a camera? Some common places for carrying a pocket camera are the rear jersey pocket (right side if right handed, left pocket for Lefties), handlebar bag side pocket (or top of inside), and cargo pants thigh pocket. I have dropped my camera while in motion a few times, the first one broke, after that I bought a Tough Camera that could take some hits (I dropped the Tough Camera twice in China, it still works). Most people carry SLR type cameras in a pannier top, padded amongst clothing like a jacket or fleece shirt or they carry the camera in the top bag of a bike trailer or fender rack (again, wrapped in a jacket, sweater or thick shirt).
Animals: Pointing a camera at an animal and centering one's head and body in line with the camera can be very threatening. Thus, learning how take camera snap shots from the hip or chest area and at a 45 to 90 degree angle from one's frontal alignment while not starring at the animal may produce snap shots that do not intimidate the animals. Interestingly, with digital cameras, if a photographer is looking at the camera's monitor screen to see an animal and not looking directly at the animal, then one is satisfying good picture taking needs while not threatening the animal by looking at it directly - just insure that the photographer and the camera are not directly facing the animal or all in line with the animal.
Noises will scare animals. When possible, turn off all sound to cameras, phones, and watches so as to be able to quietly take pictures.

"A raggedy bike ride beats a dressed-up walk." - Simon Peat, Cycling Advocate

Long Distance Bicycle Hire/Rental Issues Top Bicycle Checklist

Don't take anything for granted. We've had some good bicycle rental experiences and some real bicycle rental disappointments. In fact, these disappointments had lead us to buy Bike Friday* bicycles. We have generally found that if a bicycle service provider advertizes a type of bike or types of bikes, and maybe shows pictures of these bikes or maybe lists the bike specifications, then it seems that these types of companies deliver the goods at, or above, a desirable quality of service and product. Conversely, we have found that bicycle/touring service providers who do not specify the kind or type of bicycle that they will provide, leave a lot to be desired - These are the companies for which a traveler needs to be on guard, wary, and persistent in stating requests and/or needs.

The following list of Bicycle Items, Components, and Setup are characteristics that if not clarified, may lead to traveling frustration and regret. Another clue, to move on, is when Question and Answer communication turnaround time is greater than two weeks, especially when a third party is involved (which is not uncommon at the far reaches of the world). Remember that most foreign bicycle shops are closed from Saturday Noon till Monday Morning and this is usually the exact time that travelers arrive in country.

* The major reason why some people carry/bring/travel-with their own bike is to avoid surprises in quality standards and expectations (see below). The trade-off (or down-side) of carrying one's own bike is twofold: One, a single rider bicycle takes one case/suitcase (or one big shipping box). Two, the cyclist (or each cyclist) will probably have to be packing more bike accruements, for their bike/tour, in another suitcase, and the accruements take up valuable suitcase space.

BICYCLE HIRE/RENTAL ISSUES (Not Exhaustive):

Bicycle Rental/Hire Start and End Issues:
[ ] Agreed Pickup Place, Date/Day-of-Week, and Time 
 -  Careful about Holidays and Sundays, 
 -  No Tool access at hotels, hostels, inns, ...
    on weekends, holidays, or after the work day
 -  People who own tools, a big deal, take them home 
 -  Shop Hours, Know/Learn
[ ] Resolve Delivery/Pickup Issues/Logistics/Times
[ ] Resolve Delivery/Return Issues/Logistics/Times
[ ] Phone Number and Address, Know/Learn
 -  Know/Learn how to make a phone call to, 
    inside, and from other countries (this is compounded
    when extra calling codes are involved. 
[ ] ________________________ 
Navigation:
[ ] Maps
[ ] Written Instructions
[ ] Map Case (handlebar mount?, see through plastic case? other?)
[ ] Travel Computer (Required?  Anyway to learn about it beforehand?
    Name/Brand, Type/Model)
[ ] Route, Maps, Schedule/Itinerary, Directions    
Travel Issues: 
[ ] Do travelers need to carry/manage/hand-over travel vouchers?
[ ] What to do or who to call when things go wrong
[ ] Access to an interpreter?
[ ] First Aid, emergency numbers
[ ] ________________________

Bicycle Rental/Hire Issues
Brakes: 
[ ] Front Tire Brake/Right Hand Lever (Euro/Motorcycle style)
[ ] Rear Tire Brake/Right Hand Lever (American style)
Pedals: 
    The only issue that we've run into was that the 
    pedal threads on the rental bike were partially 
    stripped and a crank arm had to be replaced 
    in a remote town.
[ ] Clean (nothing on the pedals)
[ ] Mountain
[ ] Tow Clip
[ ] Tow Basket
[ ] Shoe Clip / Style _________
[ ] Bring your own?  Potential fitting issues? 
Tires:
    We, once had a rental bike with a Presta front wheel valve
    and a Schrader back wheel valve and a two way pump that
    didn't.
[ ] Schrader Valve (Universal Car Type)
[ ] Presta Valve (Skinny Racing type)
[ ] Puncture Lining (plastic strip)
[ ] Slime Tube
[ ] Tour Slick
[ ] Tour Ribbed
[ ] Mountain / Knobby
[ ] Other Tread _____________
Tire Pump:
[ ] Schrader
[ ] Presta
[ ] Dual Presta/Schrader 
    Note: Dennis has never seen a dual outlet 
          tire pump work properly, ever.
Sprocket Rings:
[ ] Front x {1,2,3,4}, Rear y {1,5,6,7,8,9,10} (x*y Speed)
[ ] Drive {Chain, Belt, Shaft}
[ ] Other ______________________
[ ] Tuned? Inspected? Tested?
    Some/Most bike touring companies rent their bikes through 
    local bike shops which, in turn, may or may not care about
    your well being or needs.
    Worse, a cheap bike may be purchased locally just for
    your ride and the bike will be disposed after your ride
    (the give away was when we were told to not worry about
     oiling the old chain for a seven day ride).
Bike Style:
[ ] Mountain
[ ] Tour
[ ] Recumbent, Up Handle
[ ] Recumbent, Down Handle
[ ] Hybrid 
[ ] Handlebar position (way above, above, even, below: the crotch.
    Typically, the older one becomes, the higher the 
    preferred handlebar height.)
[ ] Other ___________
Seat:
[ ] Theirs
[ ] Yours
[ ] Seat Mount (different countries have different seat 
    mounts this can be a very problematic issue. The USA
    typical mount is NOT the world standard)
[ ] Seat Post Size (seat post diameters are NOT standard.
    You may need  post shims)
[ ] Seat Shock [see previous]
Helmet:
[ ] Theirs (will always be cheap and crappy)
[ ] Yours  (Bring your own, takes up space)
Tools:
[ ] What is supplied, What is promised?
[ ] Flat Tire Repair (patches, self stick / rubber cement, 
    pry tools [sometimes called tire tools])
[ ] Supplied __________
[ ] Bring your own
[ ] Bring ___________
Racks:
[ ] None
[ ] Front Racks
[ ] Rear Racks
[ ] Rack Type (straight frame, mouse trap, hook/loop for pannier(s))
[ ] Seatpost/tube Clamp (holds less weight)
[ ] Bring your own? Insure that bike has welded rack receiver nuts, else
    you may need a clamp on the seat post type of rack (weight limited). 
    Bolts/Washers/Spacers provided?  Nut weld positions are NOT universally the same -
    Will probably need universal fitting racks/pieces. 
    May need access to tools (rechargeable drilling tool, bit, key, etc.)
Panniers, Handlebar Bag, Other bag(s):
    When a pannier is placed on a new/different rack, it will need
    to be re-fitted. This is not complicated but it is a time 
    consuming process with a per unit learning curve.
[ ] Handlebar Bag
[ ] Seat Bag
[ ] Front Pannier (one, both?)
[ ] Rear Pannier (one, both?)
[ ] Rear Rack Top Bag
[ ] Front Rack Top Bag
[ ] Other
Lighting: (We try to not ride at night in strange lands, but when things go bad, 
    one does what one has to do. We have. Be Prepared.)
[ ] Head Light
[ ] Tail Light
[ ] Other __________
[ ] Battery(ies) / Types? / Who supplies?

"Cycling provides all the big lessons of life: humility, pride, greed, discipline,
grappling with the ego, and learning what your will is and when to apply it and how to apply it."
- John Weissender, US pro cross-country mountain bike racer

Group Cycling, Group Bicycle Touring,
and Group Bicycle Touring Issues